Trekking & Glaciers in Norway
This page offers an insight into Norway - in my opinion one of the world's most impressive mountain countries. Norway is a grand country stretching from a latitude
equal to the north of Scotland to well above the arctic circle. This means that both climate and the number of daylight hours differ quite significantly from the
southerly alpine regions of Europe. One thing you notice when mountain walking here in the summer are the long days. I have often sat outside late at night with a
book or been out on 12 hour days, still to return with several hours of daylight in hand. Although Norway has endless possibilities for walking, this page focuses on
Jotunheimen - Northern Europe's greatest mountain massif - with 96 independent peaks over 2000m and home to all of Norway's summits over 2300m, the
highest being Galdhøpiggen at 2469m. The Jotunheimen National Park also includes 60 glaciers and a wealth of culture, flora and fauna.
Left, the mountain hotel at Turtagrø in western Jotunheimen looks out
onto the most alpine environment in Norway - the peaks of Hurrungane. It
was here that William Slingsby from England made a great achievement
in 1876 when he made the first ascent of Store Skagastølstind or Storen -
at 2405m it is Norways' third highest mountain. Storen still repels many
experienced walkers and climbers due to its position, difficulty and
exposure. The Turtagrø hotel was rebuilt in its modern form after a severe
fire in 2001. The original hotel dated back to 1888. The library in the hotel
houses one of the finest collections of Norwegian mountain literature.
Besides a bed and good food, you can also get up to date weather
information here.

Below, from the front of the hotel a footpath rises towards Skarstølsbreen
and the normal route to Storen. The ridge in the picture joins the peaks of
Nordre, Midtre and Vetle Skarstølstind, all over 2000m, and finally Storen.
Walking eastwards from Turtagrø brings you into Helgedalen (above). At
the end of the sheltered valley the path rises towards a small hut -
Ekrehytta, where the path divides for either Fannaråki or the plateau
leading to Keisarpasset and Jervvatnet (right). Each year there is a
mountain race from Turtagrø to the top of Fannaråki. From the waters of
Jervvatnet you get a good view of the ridge leading to Jervvasstind with
its 2351m. The peak protects the eastern end of the classic ridge
traverse along Styggedalsryggen and over Storen which is not for the
faint hearted. Dropping down from Jervvatnet along Jervassdalen leads
to the upper part of Utladalen. Utladalen is some 20km long and rises
from the town of Øvre Årdal with Vettisfossen, Norway's highest waterfall
en-route. Below, the DNT hut Skogadalsbøen is just visible at 831m in
the forest in upper Utledalen. To the left of the hut is Skogadalen and to
the right, Uradalen. The shapely peak on the right skyline is
Stølsnostinden (2074m). From Skogadalsbøen there is a 6 hour walk to
the mountain hut at Leirvassbu in the centre of Jotunheimen.
Left, wild camping in
Leirvassdalen under the
setting sun. The peaks of
Smørstabstindan in profile.
Below, on the ridge west of
Tverrbytthornet (2102m)  
with Leirvatnet below to the
left. The ridge is very
narrow in places and
requires an abseil.
Below, one of the most impressive views in Jotunheimen - looking south from Tverrbytthornet to the solitary peak of Kyrkja "The Church" (2032m). Kyrkja
(pronounced kursha) is climbed from the other side via an easy scramble. The ascent takes as little as 2 hours from Leirvassbu.
Above, the view to Leirvassbu across Leirvatnet from the summit of Kyrkja. Right, Alpine Mouse
Ear growing in a rocky crevasse high on Kyrkja. Below, a friend crossing a wide but shallow
section of the upper river Visa in Visdalen between Leirvassbu and the DNT hut at Spiterstulen.  
Below left, a view of upper Visdalen with Kyrkja and right Visdalen from near Spiterstulen.
Right, at the snout of
Hellstugubrean 6km from
Spiterstulen. There are guided
trips between Spiterstulen and
Memurubu regularly during the
summer season. The route
between the two huts takes you
over Hellstugubrean and the
adjoining Vestre Memurubrean.

Below, the impressive view in the
early evening light across
Visdalen towards Galdhøpiggen
from the lower part of
Hellstugubrean. The glacier below
Galdhøjpiggan is Svellnosbrean
and the icefall is locally known as
Eventurisen or fantasy-ice and it is
possible to be guided through the
icefall from Spiterstulen daily
during the summer season.
Left, the return view from
close to Eventyrisen
towards Hellstugubrean.
Above, Issoleie or Glacier Crowfoot is Norway's national flower. It hold the altitude record among flowering plants in Norway, being found above 2300m on
Galdhøpiggan. Above right, reindeer track on a glacier. Reindeer often venture onto glaciers to get relief from flies during the summer.
Below, Spiterstulen in Visdalen is one of the largest DNT huts and it is centrally placed for ascents of Galdhøpiggen and Glittertind, Norway's second highest
mountain. You can drive to Spiterstulen or take the bus from Lom (or even Oslo). You have to pay a road toll per vehicle at the hut. For a small fee it is also  
possible to camp across the river and use the washing and toilet facilities making this one of the most popular sites in Jotunheimen.
Below, the reception and guestbook at Spiterstulen.
There are two main tourist routes to Galdhøpiggen - from Spiterstulen in Visdalen at 1104m and from Juvashytta, which in on the plateau northeast of
Galdhøpiggen, at 1841m. The difference between the two routes is that the one from Juvasshytta crosses the Styggebrean glacier for which there is daily guiding
for turists from Juvasshytta. As an ascent of Galdhøpiggen is almost a national requirement in Norway the route from Juvasshytta is extremely popular with a
group of a hundred or so ascending to the summit on a day with good weather. Below, a group is being led across ther glacier while others are preparing at the
glaciers edge further down. Although the glacier is undramatic a roped crossing is essential. Each year people do fall into hidden crevasses.
Below, approaching Galdhøpiggen with Vestpiggen (2369m) on the right. The normal route follows the track on the glacier to the rocks and then the left
hand ridge to the summit. In poor weather, route finding on the descent can be difficult and it is not unheard of that people venture down to the steep
crevassed area to the left of the picture. A resonably fast ascent takes 3 hours from Juvasshytta and 4 hours from Spiterstulen.
Left, approaching
Galdhøpiggen and its unique
summit hut from the west side
via the ridge from Storjuvtinden
(2344m). This route includes a
traverse along a 1km long
narrow ridge and only sees a
handful of ascents a year. The
ridge includes two abseils and
grade II scrambling.
Below, Juvasshytta in the evening light with the snow capped summit of Glittertind beyond on the left.
The town of Lom north of Jotunheimen is a good place for refuelling
and supplies. The town with 2500 residents is a central stop for the
bus routes and is passed when driving across the north side of
Jotunheimen. The town has a great camp site, excellent bakery with an
outdoor reastaurant "Bakeriet i Lom", tourist office, supermarket etc. In
the centre of Lom there is the old wooden church from 1150 which is
well worth a visit. It is one of the largest stav-churches in Norway.
There are also gear shops and an outdoor climbing tower.
When approaching Jotunheimen from the southeast  over Valdresflyve then Gjendesheim is a natural place to visit and it is from here that many choose to
explore Jotunheimen. Glacial meltwater supplies the 17km lake Gjende and with its ferry connecting Gjendesheim with DNT huts at Memurubu and Gjendebu
can lead one easily into the heart of Jotunheimen. The area is also home the the most visited tourist route in Norway - The Besseggen Ridge - a narrow rocky
crest high above lake Gjende than culminates in a narrow rock wall that holds the waters of Bessvatnet back from cascading some 300m down to Gjende.
Above, the view southwest from Veslfjellet above Besseggen and right,
looking down Besseggen with Gjende on the left and Bessvatnet on the right.
Below, long shadows late in the day at the foot of Besseggen.
Below, looking across the green waters of Gjende to Gjendehøe
and the plateau of Valdresflyve beyond.
Below, approaching Jotunheimen over Valdresflyve, the wooden poles indicate how serious the snow is here in the winter. For pictures from Jotunheimen in
the autumn see the photography page.
Main Page          Hovedsiden (DK)
Above, looking across the summit of Glittertind. The summit is covered with a glacier and the snow cover causes the height of the mountain to vary from year to
year. It is though second to Galdhøpiggan. An ascent, even i summer, requires crampons as the summit area is often icy and on top of that you need to be careful
of the 400m sheer drop which is hidden from view in poor visibility by cornices. The ascent is often made from the mountain hut at Glitterheim.
Above, looking back to Russvatnet with Besshø (2258m) on the right. We are nearing the col above the mountain hut at Memurubu on Lake Gjende after walking
from Glitterheim along the shores of Russvatnet. Close to the western shore of Russvatnet is Blackwellbua. These are the remains of a stone dwelling occupied
by the Englishman Blackwell who visited and lived in the area in the 1850's. He built and occupied the simple dwelling for some time and was self sufficient with
hunting and fishing. Below, reindeer in the mist above Gjendebu at the far end of Lake Gjende.
Glacier travel is a natural part of mountain sports in Norway and
it has been that way since the late 1800's. Many of the summits
in Norway, and particularly those in Jotunheimen require a
glacier crossing as part of the ascent. Above, a small group on
the Bøverbreen glacier with the Hurrungane massif in the
background overshadowed by ominous clouds. Right,
experienced people can move around on dry glaciers quite freely
with the use of crampons and an ice axe. Below, on wet or snow
covered glaciers a rope is essential, as too are the techniques
to use it and travel safely. Here we have a bit of a tangle.
Many glaciers in Norway are so large that even in good
conditions accurate navigation and distance measurement are
essential. Below, a well equipped group are practicing
navigation and counting rope lengths - the equivalent method to
pacing on ordinary terrain. The Jostedalsbreen which lies
northwest of Jotunheimen is the largest glacier in Europe.