Mountain Walking in Norway

This page is to convey my interest in Norway as a mountain walking country and to offer information for those of you thinking about travelling there. Norway is an enormous country stretching from a latitude roughly equal to the north of Scotland to well above the arctic circle. This means that both climate and the number of daylight hours can differ quite significantly from the southerly alpine regions of Europe. One thing you notice when mountain walking here in the summer are the long days. I have often sat outside late into the night to read a book. Although Norway has endless possibilities for walking, this page focusses on Jotunheimen - Northern Europes' greatest mountain massif with 96 independant peaks over 2000m and home to all of Norways' 19 summits over 2300m, the highest being Galdhøpiggen at 2469m. Click here for a list of Norways 2000m summits. The National Park also includes 60 glaciers and a wealth of culture, flora and fauna.

Left, the mountain hotel at Turtagrø in western Jotunheimen looks out onto the most alpine environment in Norway - the peaks of Hurrungane. It was here that William Slingsby from England made a great achievement in 1876 when he made the first ascent of Store Skagastølstind or Storen - at 2405m it is Norways' third highest mountain. Storen still repels many experienced walkers and climbers due to its position, difficulty and exposure. The Turtagrø hotel was rebuilt in its modern form after a severe fire in 2001. The original hotel dated back to 1888. The library in the hotel houses one of the finest collections of Norwegian mountain literature. Besides a bed and good food, you can also get up to date weather information here. Below, from the front of the hotel a footpath rises towards Skarstølsbreen and the normal route to Storen. The ridge in the picture joins the peaks of Nordre, Midtre and Vetle Skarstølstind, all over 2000m, and finally Storen.

Walking eastwards from Turtagrø brings you into Helgedalen (above). At the end of the sheltered valley the path rises towards a small hut - Ekrehytta, where the path divides for either Fannaråki or the plateau leading to Keisarpasset and Jervvatnet (right). Each year there is a mountain race from Turtagrø to the top of Fannaråki. From the waters of Jervvatnet you get a good view of the ridge leading to Jervvasstind with its 2351m. The peak protects the eastern end of the classic ridge traverse along Styggedalsryggen and over Storen which is not for the faint hearted. Dropping down from Jervvatnet along Jervassdalen leads to the upper part of Utladalen. Utladalen is some 20km long and rises from the town of Øvre Årdal with Vettisfossen, Norways' highest waterfall en-route. Below, the DNT hut Skogadalsbøen is just visible at 831m in the forest in upper Utledalen. To the left of the hut is Skogadalen and to the right, Uradalen. The shapely peak on the right skyline is Stølsnostinden (2074m). From Skogadalsbøen there is a 6 hour walk to the mountain hut at Leirvassbu in the centre of Jotunheimen.

Left, wild camping in Leirvassdalen under the setting sun. The peaks of Smørstabstindan in profile. Below, on the ridge west of Tverrbytthornet (2102m)  with Leirvatnet below to the left. The ridge is very narrow in places and requires an abseil.

Below, one of the most impressive views in Jotunheimen - looking south from Tverrbytthornet to the solitary peak of Kyrkja "The Church" (2032m). Kyrkja (pronounced kursha) is climbed from the other side via an easy scramble. The ascent takes as little as 2 hours from Leirvassbu.

Above, the view to Leirvassbu across Leirvatnet from the summit of Kyrkja. Right, Alpine Mouse Ear growing in a rocky crevasse high on Kyrkja. Below, a friend crossing a wide but shallow section of the upper river Visa in Visdalen between Leirvassbu and the DNT hut at Spiterstulen.

Below left, a view of upper Visdalen with Kyrkja and Tverrbytthornet from the northeast. Below left, Visdalen from near Spiterstulen.

Right, at the snout of Hellstugubrean 6km from Spiterstulen. There are guided trips between Spiterstulen and Memurubu regularly during the summer season. The route between the two huts takes you over Hellstugubrean and the adjoining Vestre Memurubrean. Below, the impressive view in the early evening light across Visdalen towards Galdhøpiggen from the lower part of Hellstugubrean. The glacier below Galdhøjpiggan is Svellnosbrean and the icefall is locally known as Eventurisen or fantasy-ice and it is possible to be guided through the icefall from Spiterstulen daily during the summer season.

Below, the return view from close to Eventyrisen towards Hellstugubrean.

Above, Issoleie or Glacier Crowfoot is Norway's national flower. It hold the altitude record among flowering plants in Norway, being found above 2300m on Galdhøjpiggan. Above right, reindeer track on a glacier. Reindeer often venture onto glaciers to get relief from flies during the summer.

Below, Spiterstulen in Visdalen is one of the largest DNT huts and it is centrally placed for ascents of Galdhøpiggen and Glittertind, Norway's second highest mountain. You can drive to Spiterstulen or take the bus from Lom. You have to pay a road fee of 50Nkr per car at the hut. For 50 Nkr per person per night it is possible to camp near the hut and use the washing and toilet facilities.

Below, the reception and guestbook at Spiterstulen.

There are two main tourist routes to Galdhøpiggen - from Spiterstulen in Visdalen at 1104m and from Juvashytta, which in on the plateau northeast of Galdhøpiggen, at 1841m. The difference between the two routes is that the one from Juvasshytta crosses the Styggebrean glacier for which there is daily guiding for turists from Juvasshytta. As an ascent of Galdhøpiggen is almost a national requirement in Norway the route from Juvasshytta is extremely popular with a group of a hundred or so ascending to the summit on a day with good weather. Below, a group is being led across ther glacier while others are preparing at the glaciers edge further down. Although the glacier is undramatic a roped crossing is essential. Each year people do fall into hidden crevasses.

Below, approaching Galdhøpiggen with Vestpiggen (2369m) on the right. The normal route follows the track on the glacier to the rocks and then the left hand ridge to the summit. In poor weather, route finding on the descent can be difficult and it is not unheard of that people venture down to the steep crevassed area to the left of the picture. A resonably fast ascent takes 3 hours from Juvasshytta and 4 hours from Spiterstulen.

Above left, on a descent from Galdhøpiggen. Juvasshytta is just visible under the finger. Below left, approaching Galdhøpiggen and its small summit hut from the west side via the ridge from Storjuvtinden (2344m). This traverse along a 1km long narrow ridge only sees a handful of traverses a year. The ridge includes two abseils and grade II scrambling.

On the summit of Galdhøpiggen.

Below, Juvasshytta in the evening light with Glittertind on the left.

The town of Lom north of Jotunheimen is a good place for refuelling supplies. The town with 2500 residents is a central stop for the bus routes and is passed when driving across the north side of Jotunheimen. The town has a great camp site, excellent backery with an outdoor reastaurant "Bakeriet i Lom", tourist office, supermarket etc. In the centre of Lom there is the old wooden church from 1150 which is well worth a visit. It is one of the largest stav-churches in Norway.

When approaching Jotunheimen from the southeast  over Valdresflyve then Gjendesheim is a natural place to visit and it is from here that many choose to explore Jotunheimen. Glacial meltwater supplies the 17km lake Gjende and with its ferry connecting Gjendesheim with DNT huts at Memurubu and Gjendebu can lead one easily into the heart of Jotunheimen. The area is also home the the most visited tourist route in Norway - The Besseggen Ridge - a narrow rocky crest high above lake Gjende than culminates in a narrow rock wall that holds the waters of Bessvatnet back from cascading some 300m down to Gjende.

Above, the view southwest from Veslfjellet above Besseggen and right, looking down Besseggen with Gjende on the left and Bessvatnet on the right. Below, long shadows late in the day at the foot of Besseggen.

Below, looking across the green waters of Gjende to Gjendehøe and the plateau of Valdresflyve beyond.

Below, approaching Jotunheimen over Valdresflyve, the wooden poles indicate how serious the snow is here in the winter. For pictures from Jotunheimen in the autumn see the photography page.

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