| Mountaineering Qualifications |
| Above, On an IML assessment course in the Swiss Alps with UIAGM Guide Steve Long pointing at the map. |
| This page gives an overview of the instructor qualifications relevant to mountain walking, climbing and mountaineering available in the United Kingdom. More detailed information can be obtained from the Mountain Leader Training Board UK (MLTUK), see the links page. The British system of instructor training one of the most thorough and established in the world. Two of the qualifications - the International Mountain Leader and UIAGM Guide - are internationally recognised. |
| Mountaineering Qualifications - An Overview WGL - Walking Group Leader Qualifies the holder to lead groups on hill and moorland in the UK (for example Dartmoor) in summer conditions. ML - Mountain Leader Award Qualifies the holder to lead individuals and groups in all the mountain areas of the UK in summer conditions. ML(W) - Winter Mountain Leader Award Qualifies the holder to lead groups in all the mountain areas of the UK in full winter conditions and includes snowpack analysis and avalanche awareness, winter weather, snow belays, teaching ice axe and crampon use, emergency snow shelters, navigation, expeditions etc. You must hold the ML before beginning on this award. The winter ML assessment is renouned as being very arduous and includes a 2 night snowhole expedition. SPA - Single Pitch Award An award which qualifies the holder to supervise and groups on climbing walls and single pitch crags. MIA - Mountain Instructor Award The MIA builds on the ML and qualifies the holder to instruct in all areas of mountaineering in the UK in non-winter conditions including multipitch rock climbing, scrambling etc. You must hold the ML before starting this scheme. MIC - Mountain Instructor Certificate The MIC builds on the MIA and ML(W) and qualifies the holder to instruct in all areas of mountaineering as the MIA and includes winter snow and ice climbing. You must hold the ML(W) and MIA before starting this scheme. IML - International Mountain Leader The IML qualifies the holder to lead others in the mountains all over the world, though not on routes requiring the techniques of alpinism or on glaciated terrain. In 1992 the countries of the UK, Ireland, France, Spain, Italy, Austria and Belgium agreed on a common qualification for leading groups professionally in mountain areas. Since then the award has been developed and expanded with many new countries joining UIMLA, the Union of International Mountain Leader Associations. You must hold the ML and have taken part in a ML(W) training course before starting this scheme and hold the ML(W) or have passed and IML navigation test to do the IML assessment which is held in the Swiss Alps. The IML and UIAGM Guide qualifications are the only two awards with an internationally recognised professional carnet. UIAGM Guide The highest mountaineering qualification and the holder may instruct in all areas of mountaineering including ski mountaineering on and off piste, worldwide. Holders of the MIA/MIC benefit from shortened training and assessment in certain areas. An UIAGM/IFMGA guide is the only person that can guide or instruct professionally on glaciers and alpine climbs. Gaining a Mountaineering Qualification in the UK The different stages of each award are as follows, a) Gain the required minimum experience and pre-requisite awards. b) Register through the UKMTB - logbook and paperwork issued. c) Take part in the training course. d) Gain the required experience between training and assessment (sometimes also a minimum of 12 months). e) Have an appropriate and valid first aid certificate. f) Take part in an assessment course. g) Continue gaining experience and professional development. For the Guides carnet you must register with the Association of British Mountain Guides (BMG) and fulfill their requirements. To operate as an IML you must be a member of the British Association of International Mountain Leaders (BAIML). All the above courses and qualifications are provided by Plas Y Brenin (PYB), the national mountain centre in Wales, and Glenmore Lodge in Scotland (see the links page for links to all of these). |
| In April 2004, I made a presentation of the British training and qualifications system at the annual Dansk Forum for Natur- og Friluftsliv (DFNF) conference. Following the conference, I wrote an article describing the UK system for their magazine in light of discussions that will lead to the establishment in 2005/06 of a Danish system of qualifications for leaders and instructors of abseiling, wall, tree and rock climbing activities. A Danish committee is currently working on the new system. Download the article in Danish here. |
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