| Scandinavian Rock |
| Left and right, superb rock on Sweden's west coast in Bohuslän which lies 100km north of Gothenburg. These pictures are from Kleven on the island of Smögen. The crag at Kleven has some bolted top anchors so it is superb for a relaxed day training techniques and enjoying the sunshine and sea air. |
| Finally on the rock climbing front, here are a couple of pictures from my early climbing years. Below left, my friend Steve Golley who got me started climbing, here climbing Phantom Zone E6 6b (F7c) at Chapel Head in the Lake District. Below, with Salford University Mountaineering Club (SUMC) back in 1995 at Ravenstones Edge in the Chew Valley. If I remember rightly there is Sam Bixby bottom centre smiling as he always did, Kane Martin with the yellow pants, Matt Smollet centre, Rich Rayner in the black top behind and Dave Parkin reading the guidebook. Thankfully people have better taste in clothing now. |
| Rock climbing has been a passion for many years now. During my early climbing years, I climbed extensively in England and Wales. Since living in Denmark, I have climbed mostly in Norway and Sweden and with almost unlimited rock, there is plenty to go at. This page offers a brief glimse of climbing at crags in southern Norway and along the west coast of Sweden. Rock climbing, especially on easily accessible single pitch crags and often on bolted routes, is the natural progression from indoor climbing and I am regularly out with groups for introductory climbing weekends. I also run courses for beginners and aspirant instructors. |
| Climbing on beautiful rock in perfect weather here at Kløfta in the Grimstad area 50km east of Kristiansand on the south coast of Norway. The routes are clean and well bolted. There is also an idyllic campsite nearby called Morvigsanden Camping which lies down to the water. Norway's southern crags around Kristiansand are covered in the guidebook Sørlandsfører. The book covers crags from Mandal on Norway's very southern tip to Arendal some 120km to the northeast. Good access via ferry from Denmark allows effective weekend climbing trips. |
| Bohuslän is a large area that stretches for 140 km along the coastline from north of Gothenburg to the Norwegian border near Oslo. Bohuslän is one of Sweden's best climbing areas with its solid granite, clear fjords and beautiful countryside. The guidebook to the area describes over 1200 routes on 100 crags. The climbing season is long - from May to September if you like warmer weather, and beyond these months if you don't mind the cold. The best time to visit is at the end of August or beginning of September as the water is warm. Below, at the crag at Kleven. |
| Further south, in and around the town of Gothenburg, are more crags. Many are easily accessible via public transport from the twon centre and the ferry terminal. The most popular crags with local climbers are Utby and Fjällbo, both within the city limits and within a nature reserve. The pictures below are from a trip to the area back in 1999, during the first weekend in October. The weather was fantastic and the trees were in full autumn colours. The majority of routes here are traditional though there is a good sports climbing crag at Seglora. The local guidebook is called Klätring i Göteborg med Omnejd (Climbing in Gothenburg and surroundings). |
| About 140km south of Gothenburg is the area around the town of Halmstad. The Halmstad area is very beautiful and is typical of Sweden with rolling hills, extensive forests and rivers. There are many crags in the Halmstad area but climbing here is relatively new, most of the development has occurred since 1988. The Halmstad Climbing Club is responsible for most of the development of the crags, however there are many possibilities remaining and it is not unlikely that you will climb new lines during a trip. The pictures right and below are from the crags at Kajehallar near the town of Kvibille. The crag is approximately 400 m long and between 10 and 20 m high with routes either top-roped or led using natural protection. Below, climbing the arete of Arresterad (5+). |
| Right, on Vita Lögner (7-) at Simlångsdalen. This excellent route is continually on small holds and slightly overhanging in the upper half of the route. |
| Above and right, climbing at Storheia in Kristiansand. Below, climbing at Husvik south east of Tønsberg on Norway's south coast east of Larvik. |
| Above and left, leading at Fjällbo in Gothenborg. Below, two views of the crag section of Övre väggen at Utby with routes such as Spagaten. |
| Below, two pictures from the rocky Swedish peninsula of Kullen - or Kullaberg. This is the most visited rock climbing area by Danes due to its proximity to Copenhagen and ease of access. |
| Above, evening light over our tent on the campsite at Langeby not far from Ormestrandvika on the peninsula of Vesterøya south of Sandefjord near Larvik. Below, the crag at Signalen in the centre of Stavern, just 10 minutes south of Larvik. |
| Above and below, climbing on Carstens Rende on Kullen's south coast in wonderful March spring weather. The picture below was taken on a rescue skills training course. The next picture below shows the Dansk Mountaineering Club hut near Kullen on a damp March evening. |
| The four pictures here show a glimpse of the fantastic "Bornholm Rock" climbing event in July 2011. Over a hundred climbers gathered for four days of events, competitions and workshops at the newly opened quarry with over 40 bolted routes. For more pictures, see my Flickr site. |