| William Cecil Slingsby & Norway's 2000m Peaks |
Above, crossing the Styggebrean glacier with Galdhøjpiggen behind (left) and Veslpiggen (right). Slingsby ascended Galdhøjpiggen in 1874, although not as the first.
| This page gives information about the mountains in Norway that rise above 2000m and about William Cecil Slingsby's adventures in Jotunheimen. Many visits to Norway have inspired me to create a list of the major 2000m mountains in the country and make the list available here. This list is not unique and several Norwegians have websites dedicated to this subject too. My list includes the 130 mountains in Norway with a prominence of at least 100m, this means to say that there is at least a drop of 100m on all sides of the summit. 96 of these mountains are in the Jotunheim massif. Of great significance is the fact that many of the mountains and their ascents require good mountain skills and judgement, a high level of fitness due to the distances and ascents involved, and solid glacier skills. Get the pdf file with a list of Norway's 2000m Peaks by clicking here. |
1874
Ringsskar
In the Hurrungane, Slingsby's favourite area. He set off with Dewhurst from Vetti Gard at 360m above sea level in Utledalen, above the town of Øvre Aardal, and
proceeded through Stølsmaradalen to Stølsmaradalsbreen and the first crossing of Ringsskar (Rings pass or col) at 1750m with a descent by Ringselvi to
Ringsseter. The route involves 4km of glacier work including the actual pass. Today one would choose to arrive at Turtagrø close to Ringsseter. This is a 24km, 10
hour trip. Today there is also a DNT hut in Stølsmaradalen, 3 hours above Vetti Gard.
Galdhøpiggen
From the magnificent Røisheim Hotel in Bøverdalen, Slingsby, Dewhurst, Eilif and another Norwegian ascended Galdhøpiggen (2469m) which is the highest
mountain in Scandinavia. Galdhøpiggen was first climbed in 1854. From an elevation of 500m they walked up over open mountainside, probably passing
Raudbergstulen and the future site of Juvasshytta (built in 1884) to the glacier Styggebrean at an altitude of 2000m. They crossed the glacier to the rocky ridge and
gained the summit after 7 hours. They descended via the future normal route to Galdhøpiggen directly to Spiterstulen, at that time only a one-room seter (or
sheiling) at an altitude of 1100m in Visdalen.
The following days of Slingsby's visit in 1874 are a little unclear as one line in the book confuses us. This single sentence tells us that after they had climbed
Urdadalstindene from Spiterstulen they descended to Gjendebu. Slingsby writes "Good glissades took us to the Langevand, and thence the walk to Gjendebu was
straightforward". Thus implying that the following day they climbed Memurutindan on a round trip from Gjendebu. In my opinion however, there are several reasons
to suggest that they actually returned to Spiterstulen after climbing Urdadalstindene which are:
- The walk from below Urdadalstindene to Spiterstulen is "straightforward", whereas the walk to Gjendebu via Urdadalen is very rough and 8km longer.
- The evening after ascending Urdadalstindene, Ole Røisheim arrives at the seter, as previously arranged. The distance from Røisheim to Spiterstulen is 16km
and therefore sensible, whereas to Gjendebu there are a further 24km, and Røisheim had a bad knee.
- The following day, they ascend Memurutindan via Hellstugubrean. The description in the book accurately describes the route setting off from Spiterstulen and not
Gjendebu. Also, the round trip from Gjendebu would be 50km! The route from Spiterstulen over Memurutindan to Gjendebu is approximately 32km.
- It is not until after the Memurutindan day that Slingsby describes Gjendebu, and in some detail too.
The following descriptions therefore assume that they returned to Spiterstulen after climbing Urdadalstindene.
Urdadalstindene
The group set off along Visdalen from Spiterstulen and progressed into Urdadalen (the valley of rocks) before ascending the hillside and the glacier between Midtre
and Store Urdadalstindene (2060m and 2116m respectively) to the pass between these summits. They ascended Midtre Urdadalstinden and afterwards Store
Urdadalstinden by traversing the rocky ridge before descending the glacier back to the valley and returning to Spiterstulen. This route is 21km with 1200m of ascent.
Memurutindan 2280m (1st ascent)
This was Slingsby's first ascent which he made together with Dewhurst and Rolf Alfsen. Though not a major peak, this 2280m summit is part of the impressive
Memurutindane. From Spiterstulen they walked aling Visdalen for almost 4 km before turning towards Hellstugubrean. They ascended the first 2 or so kilometers of
this glacier before ascending the steep "steilebræ" (steep glacier) by grid reference 711250 to the rocky ridge. From here there is a short distance to the summit.
On return they descended by rocks close to the steilebræ to Vestre Memurubrean, which they followed to Memurudalen. From here they still had quite a walk via
Memurutunga and Storådalen back to Gjendebu.
Gjendebu to Eidsbugarden & Skinneggen
Following two big mountain days, Slingsby, Dewhurst and Rolf Alfsen walked to Eidsbugarden at the head of Lake Bygdin. This valley walk took them 5 hours, the
same time as the footpath between these two huts takes today. That evening Slingsby walked up to Skinneggi with three Norwegians who were also staying at
Eidsbugarden. The probably walked up to Utsikten (The View) at 1518m or point 1607m, just over 3km from the Tourist Club hut, and enjoyed the sunset.
Morke-Koldedalen
From Eidsbugarden, Slingsby, Dewhurst and Alfsen departed for a traverse of the remote and wild Morke-Koldedal pass - apparently a direct route to Vetti Gard.
They must have passed the end of Lake Tyin, which goes without mention in the book, before following the Koldedøla river for a mile or so before crossing a snow
bridge and ascending the right hand branch of Koldedalsbreen. They crossed the rocky rib onto the upper reaches of the left hand branch of the glacier before
turning back on the final rocky ridge as Alfsen would not go on. In my opinion they were attempting the unnamed point 1822m marked on modern maps. They
descended the glacier to Koldedalsvatnet and followed the south western shore into Morke-Koldedalen (Slingsby actually walked on the ice on the lake to avoid the
danger of falling ice). They all crossed the upper two ice covered lakes as they judged the shorelines to be impassable. After crossing the ice of the upper lake of
Andrevatnet (1227m) Slingsby admired they view back towards "the sugar-loaf" of Gjeldedalstind. This characteristic peak is called Hjelledalstinden (1989m) and it
seems Slingsby referred to the three summits on the south side of Morke-Koldedal collectively, or mistakenly, as Gjeldedalstind. They descended from the pass
and through forest to above Vettisfossen before continuing to Vetti Gard. A trip of 29km which took them close to 11 hours.
Stølsmaradalen
On the final couple of days of this visit, the three walked into the upper Stølsmaradalen and pitched a tent below the glacier. They were beaten back the following
day by bad weather and descended all the way to Aardal via the high path on the north western side of Utledalen and Avdalen.
Ringsskar
In the Hurrungane, Slingsby's favourite area. He set off with Dewhurst from Vetti Gard at 360m above sea level in Utledalen, above the town of Øvre Aardal, and
proceeded through Stølsmaradalen to Stølsmaradalsbreen and the first crossing of Ringsskar (Rings pass or col) at 1750m with a descent by Ringselvi to
Ringsseter. The route involves 4km of glacier work including the actual pass. Today one would choose to arrive at Turtagrø close to Ringsseter. This is a 24km, 10
hour trip. Today there is also a DNT hut in Stølsmaradalen, 3 hours above Vetti Gard.
Galdhøpiggen
From the magnificent Røisheim Hotel in Bøverdalen, Slingsby, Dewhurst, Eilif and another Norwegian ascended Galdhøpiggen (2469m) which is the highest
mountain in Scandinavia. Galdhøpiggen was first climbed in 1854. From an elevation of 500m they walked up over open mountainside, probably passing
Raudbergstulen and the future site of Juvasshytta (built in 1884) to the glacier Styggebrean at an altitude of 2000m. They crossed the glacier to the rocky ridge and
gained the summit after 7 hours. They descended via the future normal route to Galdhøpiggen directly to Spiterstulen, at that time only a one-room seter (or
sheiling) at an altitude of 1100m in Visdalen.
The following days of Slingsby's visit in 1874 are a little unclear as one line in the book confuses us. This single sentence tells us that after they had climbed
Urdadalstindene from Spiterstulen they descended to Gjendebu. Slingsby writes "Good glissades took us to the Langevand, and thence the walk to Gjendebu was
straightforward". Thus implying that the following day they climbed Memurutindan on a round trip from Gjendebu. In my opinion however, there are several reasons
to suggest that they actually returned to Spiterstulen after climbing Urdadalstindene which are:
- The walk from below Urdadalstindene to Spiterstulen is "straightforward", whereas the walk to Gjendebu via Urdadalen is very rough and 8km longer.
- The evening after ascending Urdadalstindene, Ole Røisheim arrives at the seter, as previously arranged. The distance from Røisheim to Spiterstulen is 16km
and therefore sensible, whereas to Gjendebu there are a further 24km, and Røisheim had a bad knee.
- The following day, they ascend Memurutindan via Hellstugubrean. The description in the book accurately describes the route setting off from Spiterstulen and not
Gjendebu. Also, the round trip from Gjendebu would be 50km! The route from Spiterstulen over Memurutindan to Gjendebu is approximately 32km.
- It is not until after the Memurutindan day that Slingsby describes Gjendebu, and in some detail too.
The following descriptions therefore assume that they returned to Spiterstulen after climbing Urdadalstindene.
Urdadalstindene
The group set off along Visdalen from Spiterstulen and progressed into Urdadalen (the valley of rocks) before ascending the hillside and the glacier between Midtre
and Store Urdadalstindene (2060m and 2116m respectively) to the pass between these summits. They ascended Midtre Urdadalstinden and afterwards Store
Urdadalstinden by traversing the rocky ridge before descending the glacier back to the valley and returning to Spiterstulen. This route is 21km with 1200m of ascent.
Memurutindan 2280m (1st ascent)
This was Slingsby's first ascent which he made together with Dewhurst and Rolf Alfsen. Though not a major peak, this 2280m summit is part of the impressive
Memurutindane. From Spiterstulen they walked aling Visdalen for almost 4 km before turning towards Hellstugubrean. They ascended the first 2 or so kilometers of
this glacier before ascending the steep "steilebræ" (steep glacier) by grid reference 711250 to the rocky ridge. From here there is a short distance to the summit.
On return they descended by rocks close to the steilebræ to Vestre Memurubrean, which they followed to Memurudalen. From here they still had quite a walk via
Memurutunga and Storådalen back to Gjendebu.
Gjendebu to Eidsbugarden & Skinneggen
Following two big mountain days, Slingsby, Dewhurst and Rolf Alfsen walked to Eidsbugarden at the head of Lake Bygdin. This valley walk took them 5 hours, the
same time as the footpath between these two huts takes today. That evening Slingsby walked up to Skinneggi with three Norwegians who were also staying at
Eidsbugarden. The probably walked up to Utsikten (The View) at 1518m or point 1607m, just over 3km from the Tourist Club hut, and enjoyed the sunset.
Morke-Koldedalen
From Eidsbugarden, Slingsby, Dewhurst and Alfsen departed for a traverse of the remote and wild Morke-Koldedal pass - apparently a direct route to Vetti Gard.
They must have passed the end of Lake Tyin, which goes without mention in the book, before following the Koldedøla river for a mile or so before crossing a snow
bridge and ascending the right hand branch of Koldedalsbreen. They crossed the rocky rib onto the upper reaches of the left hand branch of the glacier before
turning back on the final rocky ridge as Alfsen would not go on. In my opinion they were attempting the unnamed point 1822m marked on modern maps. They
descended the glacier to Koldedalsvatnet and followed the south western shore into Morke-Koldedalen (Slingsby actually walked on the ice on the lake to avoid the
danger of falling ice). They all crossed the upper two ice covered lakes as they judged the shorelines to be impassable. After crossing the ice of the upper lake of
Andrevatnet (1227m) Slingsby admired they view back towards "the sugar-loaf" of Gjeldedalstind. This characteristic peak is called Hjelledalstinden (1989m) and it
seems Slingsby referred to the three summits on the south side of Morke-Koldedal collectively, or mistakenly, as Gjeldedalstind. They descended from the pass
and through forest to above Vettisfossen before continuing to Vetti Gard. A trip of 29km which took them close to 11 hours.
Stølsmaradalen
On the final couple of days of this visit, the three walked into the upper Stølsmaradalen and pitched a tent below the glacier. They were beaten back the following
day by bad weather and descended all the way to Aardal via the high path on the north western side of Utledalen and Avdalen.
1875
Glittertind
Again in July, Slingsby visited Røisheim. When departing for the mountains he left with his sister Edith and Rolf Alfsen, who he again had hired to help with carrying
supplies. They walked into Visdalen and upon reaching the Glitre, the stream coming off the western slopes of Glittertind, they turned up the hillside and followed
the waters for a while before traversing towards Steindalen and ascending Glitterrundhøe. From this minor rounded summit at 2089m, they could see the snow
dome of Glittertind (2465m). Alfsen waited on the snows not far from the actual summit of Glittertind as Slingsby and his sister roped up for the final meters on the
Glitterbrean glacier. The ascent took them eight hours and forty minutes and Edith was the first lady to reach the summit. The descent to Spiterstulen was straight
forward taking a further four hours and twenty minutes. A day of 28km.
Gravdalen
From Spiterstulen, the three walked along Visdalen and past the impressive Kyrkja (2032m) to Leirvatnet. Slyngsby had wanted to climb Kyrkja or 'The Church' but
time did not allow and they pressed on into Gravdalen - a great shame as this is one of the most impressive and accessible mountains in Norway. Beyond
Gravdalen and into Storutledalen, they overnighted at the primitive Muradn Seter, not far from the watershed, after a day of 27km. Incidentally, the mountain hut of
Leirassbu by the shores of Leirvatnet was first built in this year. However, the building work must have begun after Slingsby's visit as he makes no mention of it and
I am sure he would have stayed in order to make an ascent of Kyrkja possible.
Skogadalsbøen
From Muradn seter they had trouble crossing the Utla river, but with the assistance of a boy and a horse they made it. They then followed the course of the modern
day route to Skogadalsbøen and afterwards traversed the eastern side of Utledalen below Friken. They toiled for seven hours to reach the top of Vettisfossen before
descending further to Vetti Gard. A day of 19km.
Glittertind
Again in July, Slingsby visited Røisheim. When departing for the mountains he left with his sister Edith and Rolf Alfsen, who he again had hired to help with carrying
supplies. They walked into Visdalen and upon reaching the Glitre, the stream coming off the western slopes of Glittertind, they turned up the hillside and followed
the waters for a while before traversing towards Steindalen and ascending Glitterrundhøe. From this minor rounded summit at 2089m, they could see the snow
dome of Glittertind (2465m). Alfsen waited on the snows not far from the actual summit of Glittertind as Slingsby and his sister roped up for the final meters on the
Glitterbrean glacier. The ascent took them eight hours and forty minutes and Edith was the first lady to reach the summit. The descent to Spiterstulen was straight
forward taking a further four hours and twenty minutes. A day of 28km.
Gravdalen
From Spiterstulen, the three walked along Visdalen and past the impressive Kyrkja (2032m) to Leirvatnet. Slyngsby had wanted to climb Kyrkja or 'The Church' but
time did not allow and they pressed on into Gravdalen - a great shame as this is one of the most impressive and accessible mountains in Norway. Beyond
Gravdalen and into Storutledalen, they overnighted at the primitive Muradn Seter, not far from the watershed, after a day of 27km. Incidentally, the mountain hut of
Leirassbu by the shores of Leirvatnet was first built in this year. However, the building work must have begun after Slingsby's visit as he makes no mention of it and
I am sure he would have stayed in order to make an ascent of Kyrkja possible.
Skogadalsbøen
From Muradn seter they had trouble crossing the Utla river, but with the assistance of a boy and a horse they made it. They then followed the course of the modern
day route to Skogadalsbøen and afterwards traversed the eastern side of Utledalen below Friken. They toiled for seven hours to reach the top of Vettisfossen before
descending further to Vetti Gard. A day of 19km.
1876
Austre Kalvehøgda
In the July of 1876, Slingsby and Emanuel Mohn arrived in Jotunheimen from the south, close to the eastern end of Lake Bygdin. They stayed in a small hut owned
by Knut Lykken by Raufjorden and their first day invovled an ascent of Austre Kalvåhøgda (2178m) on the northern shores of Bygdin. In poor weather they rowed
across Bygdin to Hestevollen and as the weather improved, ascended the easy mountainside to the summit. They returned by the same route giving a short day of
10km from the shores of Bygdin.
Bitihorn
Slingsby ascended the prominent summit of Bitihorn by the southern entrance to Jotunheimen. Bitihorn (1607m) is easily reached in 2km from Raufjorden.
Øystre (Austre) Torfinnstinden (1st ascent)
After walking along the north shore of Bygdin to Nybue (Nybod), Slingsby, Mohn and Lykken made the first ascent of Torfinnstinden (2120m) by its southern flank.
The ascent took three hours from Nybue and involved scrambling over steep scree and though difficult and loose gullies. The descent via the same route took a
further two and a half hours.
Galdeberget (1st ascent)
The three followed their ascent of Torfinnstinden by another first ascent. This time they ascended Galdeberget (2075m) from Nybue via the open moorland north of
Bygdin and south of Langedalstjernet lake. They crossed the Galdeberget glacier to the open ridge which they followed to the summit. They descended the western
flank of Galdeberget to Bygdin and on to Eidsbugarden. A day of 20km.
Uranostinden & Slingsbytinden (1st ascents)
From Eidsbugarden the three continued their expedition by making further new ascents. They left the hut and followed the long undulating ridge of Langeskavlen
before dropping onto the Uranosbreen. It appears they avoided the summit of Langeskavltinden (2014m) which is one of the easiest 2000m summits. The group
ascended to the wide pass between the Uranosbreen and the Skogadalsbreen. From here they ascended to the col on the ridge north of Uranostinden before
Slingsby and Mohn followed the narrowing rocky ridge to make the first ascent of this summit (2157m). They then descended to the col and Slingsby continued
alone to make the first ascent of the summit north of the col. Slingsbytinden or Nørdre Uranostinden (2026m). The three descended Skogadalsbreen and followed
Skogadalen to Skogadalsboen. A day of 24km and approximately 1200m of ascent and 1400m of descent.
Gjertvasstind (1st ascent)
Another day of good weather afforded the three another first ascent, this time on Gjertvasstind (2351m), the eastern most summit in the central Hurrungane. From
Skogadalsbøen they descended and waded the river Utla and ascended to the site of Gjertvassbøen. From here they followed the slowly narrowing mountainside,
over snow fields and a small glacier to the impressive summit ridge and dramatic summit that towers above Maradalsbreen and Gjertvassbreen. They spent 90
minutes on the summit before following their footsteps down to Utledalen where they turned south to Vormeli (Vormelid) at a height of 600m. They covered 16km
and had 1700m of ascent and 1900m of descent over their eleven hour day.
Store Skagatølstind (1st ascent)
Even after several big mountain days, the three men were still capable of gaining this summit - one of the most difficult mountains in Northern Europe. From
Vormeli they ascended into Maradalen by the river Maradøla before traversing over Rolandsnosi and crossing the ridge between Maradalen and Midtmaradalen at
1600m. They descended into Midtmaradalen and met the snout of Midtmaradalensbreen at an altitude of 1100m. Today the snout has receded to an altitude of
1250m (a little over 2km up the valley floor). They crossed the lower fan of the glacier before deciding on a route up the glacier to the right of Store Skagatølstind and
not the route to Bandet (to the left or west). Eleven hours after leaving Vormeli, Slingsby reaches the col between Storen and Vesle Skagatølstind ahead of Mohn
and Lykken. Slingsby had a look around before the others joined him at the now named Mohns Skard. Mohn and Lykken stayed at the col while Slyngsby scrambled
to the summit. He admired the cloudless view before building a small cairn and leaving a handkerchief under some stones. The rocky descent to the col was
difficult but without event and the three then descended the later named Slingsbybreen and the route through Maradal. After 18 hours they arrived back at Vormeli.
Keisarpasset
On the final day of this summers mountaineering, they walked from Vormeli through Gjertvassdalen or Jervvassdalen and over Keisarpasset at 1500m. From
above Helgedalen they could see Slingsby's handkerchief on the top of Store Skagatølstind through Mohn's telescope. They continued to the town of Fortun that day.
Austre Kalvehøgda
In the July of 1876, Slingsby and Emanuel Mohn arrived in Jotunheimen from the south, close to the eastern end of Lake Bygdin. They stayed in a small hut owned
by Knut Lykken by Raufjorden and their first day invovled an ascent of Austre Kalvåhøgda (2178m) on the northern shores of Bygdin. In poor weather they rowed
across Bygdin to Hestevollen and as the weather improved, ascended the easy mountainside to the summit. They returned by the same route giving a short day of
10km from the shores of Bygdin.
Bitihorn
Slingsby ascended the prominent summit of Bitihorn by the southern entrance to Jotunheimen. Bitihorn (1607m) is easily reached in 2km from Raufjorden.
Øystre (Austre) Torfinnstinden (1st ascent)
After walking along the north shore of Bygdin to Nybue (Nybod), Slingsby, Mohn and Lykken made the first ascent of Torfinnstinden (2120m) by its southern flank.
The ascent took three hours from Nybue and involved scrambling over steep scree and though difficult and loose gullies. The descent via the same route took a
further two and a half hours.
Galdeberget (1st ascent)
The three followed their ascent of Torfinnstinden by another first ascent. This time they ascended Galdeberget (2075m) from Nybue via the open moorland north of
Bygdin and south of Langedalstjernet lake. They crossed the Galdeberget glacier to the open ridge which they followed to the summit. They descended the western
flank of Galdeberget to Bygdin and on to Eidsbugarden. A day of 20km.
Uranostinden & Slingsbytinden (1st ascents)
From Eidsbugarden the three continued their expedition by making further new ascents. They left the hut and followed the long undulating ridge of Langeskavlen
before dropping onto the Uranosbreen. It appears they avoided the summit of Langeskavltinden (2014m) which is one of the easiest 2000m summits. The group
ascended to the wide pass between the Uranosbreen and the Skogadalsbreen. From here they ascended to the col on the ridge north of Uranostinden before
Slingsby and Mohn followed the narrowing rocky ridge to make the first ascent of this summit (2157m). They then descended to the col and Slingsby continued
alone to make the first ascent of the summit north of the col. Slingsbytinden or Nørdre Uranostinden (2026m). The three descended Skogadalsbreen and followed
Skogadalen to Skogadalsboen. A day of 24km and approximately 1200m of ascent and 1400m of descent.
Gjertvasstind (1st ascent)
Another day of good weather afforded the three another first ascent, this time on Gjertvasstind (2351m), the eastern most summit in the central Hurrungane. From
Skogadalsbøen they descended and waded the river Utla and ascended to the site of Gjertvassbøen. From here they followed the slowly narrowing mountainside,
over snow fields and a small glacier to the impressive summit ridge and dramatic summit that towers above Maradalsbreen and Gjertvassbreen. They spent 90
minutes on the summit before following their footsteps down to Utledalen where they turned south to Vormeli (Vormelid) at a height of 600m. They covered 16km
and had 1700m of ascent and 1900m of descent over their eleven hour day.
Store Skagatølstind (1st ascent)
Even after several big mountain days, the three men were still capable of gaining this summit - one of the most difficult mountains in Northern Europe. From
Vormeli they ascended into Maradalen by the river Maradøla before traversing over Rolandsnosi and crossing the ridge between Maradalen and Midtmaradalen at
1600m. They descended into Midtmaradalen and met the snout of Midtmaradalensbreen at an altitude of 1100m. Today the snout has receded to an altitude of
1250m (a little over 2km up the valley floor). They crossed the lower fan of the glacier before deciding on a route up the glacier to the right of Store Skagatølstind and
not the route to Bandet (to the left or west). Eleven hours after leaving Vormeli, Slingsby reaches the col between Storen and Vesle Skagatølstind ahead of Mohn
and Lykken. Slingsby had a look around before the others joined him at the now named Mohns Skard. Mohn and Lykken stayed at the col while Slyngsby scrambled
to the summit. He admired the cloudless view before building a small cairn and leaving a handkerchief under some stones. The rocky descent to the col was
difficult but without event and the three then descended the later named Slingsbybreen and the route through Maradal. After 18 hours they arrived back at Vormeli.
Keisarpasset
On the final day of this summers mountaineering, they walked from Vormeli through Gjertvassdalen or Jervvassdalen and over Keisarpasset at 1500m. From
above Helgedalen they could see Slingsby's handkerchief on the top of Store Skagatølstind through Mohn's telescope. They continued to the town of Fortun that day.
1877
Stølsnaastind (1st ascent)
Again in July, Slingsby was at Vetti Gard from where he made the first ascent of Stølsnaastind (2074m) with Anfind and Reusch. From Vetti Gard they followed the
zig-zags to above Vettisfossen and continued through the forest past the site of Ingjerdbu and onto open mountainside. The three most likely passed to the south of
Raudnibba (point 1553m) and arrived on the flat glaciated area of Stølsnosi at 1930m. They descended some 100m or so onto the glacier above Morka-Koldedal
and ascended Stølsnostinden by the south east ridge. Upon descent they followed their line back down the rocks to the pass on the south east side before
descending the glacier to the north into Fleskedal. They reached the seter in Fleskedal that afternoon, probably Selsbøen.
Stølsnaastind (1st ascent)
Again in July, Slingsby was at Vetti Gard from where he made the first ascent of Stølsnaastind (2074m) with Anfind and Reusch. From Vetti Gard they followed the
zig-zags to above Vettisfossen and continued through the forest past the site of Ingjerdbu and onto open mountainside. The three most likely passed to the south of
Raudnibba (point 1553m) and arrived on the flat glaciated area of Stølsnosi at 1930m. They descended some 100m or so onto the glacier above Morka-Koldedal
and ascended Stølsnostinden by the south east ridge. Upon descent they followed their line back down the rocks to the pass on the south east side before
descending the glacier to the north into Fleskedal. They reached the seter in Fleskedal that afternoon, probably Selsbøen.
1880
Around Hurrungane
In the year 1800, Slingsby visited Norway in October. He arrived in Skolden by ferry as he had done many times before and visited Sulheim's house in Eide. With a
horse to bear they supplies they struggled up the icy road to Fotun and on to Turtagrø. The deep snow slowed their progress and after turning back below the
slopes of Fannaråki on the approach to the Keisarpass, they overnighted in the seter in Helgedal. Next day Halvar, Sulheim and Slingsby continued over
Keisarpasset and into Jervvassdalen. They left their bagage and skiis in Guridalen and continued the 4km to Vormeli in Utladalen. The following day Slingsby and
Sulheim went looking for bears and wandered downstream and visited the top of Kyrkjestigen (890m) before returning. During the subsequent days, the three
scoured the area looking for signs of bears and they bivouacked in caves and a snowhole in the Utladalen before scrambling their way down river to Vettisfossen
and finally Vetti Gard.
Around Hurrungane
In the year 1800, Slingsby visited Norway in October. He arrived in Skolden by ferry as he had done many times before and visited Sulheim's house in Eide. With a
horse to bear they supplies they struggled up the icy road to Fotun and on to Turtagrø. The deep snow slowed their progress and after turning back below the
slopes of Fannaråki on the approach to the Keisarpass, they overnighted in the seter in Helgedal. Next day Halvar, Sulheim and Slingsby continued over
Keisarpasset and into Jervvassdalen. They left their bagage and skiis in Guridalen and continued the 4km to Vormeli in Utladalen. The following day Slingsby and
Sulheim went looking for bears and wandered downstream and visited the top of Kyrkjestigen (890m) before returning. During the subsequent days, the three
scoured the area looking for signs of bears and they bivouacked in caves and a snowhole in the Utladalen before scrambling their way down river to Vettisfossen
and finally Vetti Gard.
1881
In 1881, Slingsby visited Justedalsbreen from Leirdal on the south east corner of this immense glacier before another stint in Jotunheimen in September.
Visbreatinden (1st ascent) & Semelholstinden (1st ascent)
Although not described in The Northern Playground, this mountain day on the 30th of August gave Vigdal and Slingsby two first ascents. They started and finished
at Gjendebu and most likely climbed Visbreatinden (2234m) from the south via Langvatnet and the col (point 1958m). They possibly descended the east ridge or
retraced their steps before crossing the Visbrean and ascending the rocks to the summit of Semelholstinden (2147m). Their descent was likely over the Visbrean
and southern flank to Langvatnet. Of-course they may has climbed the tops in the reverse order. I am in the process of verifying details of this ascent in Norway.
Store Hellstugutinden (1st ascent)
From Gjendebu on the first of the month, Slingsby and Johannes Vigdal walk up Storådalen and to the cirque east of Semeltinden. They cross Semelholet and
descend slightly into Urdadalen before turning rightwards up snowfields and rocks to the col on the south ridge of Store Hellstugutinden. From here they follow the
narrowing rocky ridge to the small summit at 2346m. They descend via easy snow slopes on the Vestre Memurubrean glacier which they follow back to the cirque
by Semeltinden and via Semelåe and Storådalen to Gjendebu. A day of 26km and 1500m of ascent.
Mjølkedalstinden (1st ascent)
From Gjendebu, Vigdal and Slingsby walked up onto Gjendetunga and into Rauddalen which they followed over the watershed to a round tarn, a kilometer short of
the sight of the modern DNT hut at Olavsbu. They ascended the east side of Mjølkedalstinden over a small glacier to the south ridge. The steep rocks provided
some decent scrambling and they soon reached the summit at 2138m. They descended the south ridge and crossed the pass between point 1970m and the
summit in order to descend the glacier on the northern side of the pass into Rauddalen before continuing through Storutledalen. They reached the seter in
Guridalen by late evening after covering 28km and 1200m of ascent.
Gjertvassbreen & Styggedalsbreen
Aiming for Sulheim's house in Eide, Slingsby and Vigdal crossed the northern side of the Hurrungane and made a reconnaissance of Styggedalstind on the way.
They ascended the Gjertvassbreen almost to the summit of Styggedalstind, most likely to withing a few hundred feet of the col between Styggedalstind and
Gjertvasstind before turning back and descending the Styggedalsbreen to Helgedalen and Turtagrø. This was the first traverse of this crossing which is parallel to
the Keisarpasset.
In 1881, Slingsby visited Justedalsbreen from Leirdal on the south east corner of this immense glacier before another stint in Jotunheimen in September.
Visbreatinden (1st ascent) & Semelholstinden (1st ascent)
Although not described in The Northern Playground, this mountain day on the 30th of August gave Vigdal and Slingsby two first ascents. They started and finished
at Gjendebu and most likely climbed Visbreatinden (2234m) from the south via Langvatnet and the col (point 1958m). They possibly descended the east ridge or
retraced their steps before crossing the Visbrean and ascending the rocks to the summit of Semelholstinden (2147m). Their descent was likely over the Visbrean
and southern flank to Langvatnet. Of-course they may has climbed the tops in the reverse order. I am in the process of verifying details of this ascent in Norway.
Store Hellstugutinden (1st ascent)
From Gjendebu on the first of the month, Slingsby and Johannes Vigdal walk up Storådalen and to the cirque east of Semeltinden. They cross Semelholet and
descend slightly into Urdadalen before turning rightwards up snowfields and rocks to the col on the south ridge of Store Hellstugutinden. From here they follow the
narrowing rocky ridge to the small summit at 2346m. They descend via easy snow slopes on the Vestre Memurubrean glacier which they follow back to the cirque
by Semeltinden and via Semelåe and Storådalen to Gjendebu. A day of 26km and 1500m of ascent.
Mjølkedalstinden (1st ascent)
From Gjendebu, Vigdal and Slingsby walked up onto Gjendetunga and into Rauddalen which they followed over the watershed to a round tarn, a kilometer short of
the sight of the modern DNT hut at Olavsbu. They ascended the east side of Mjølkedalstinden over a small glacier to the south ridge. The steep rocks provided
some decent scrambling and they soon reached the summit at 2138m. They descended the south ridge and crossed the pass between point 1970m and the
summit in order to descend the glacier on the northern side of the pass into Rauddalen before continuing through Storutledalen. They reached the seter in
Guridalen by late evening after covering 28km and 1200m of ascent.
Gjertvassbreen & Styggedalsbreen
Aiming for Sulheim's house in Eide, Slingsby and Vigdal crossed the northern side of the Hurrungane and made a reconnaissance of Styggedalstind on the way.
They ascended the Gjertvassbreen almost to the summit of Styggedalstind, most likely to withing a few hundred feet of the col between Styggedalstind and
Gjertvasstind before turning back and descending the Styggedalsbreen to Helgedalen and Turtagrø. This was the first traverse of this crossing which is parallel to
the Keisarpasset.
1889
Mjølkedalspiggen (1st ascent)
Apparently Slingsby made the first ascent of Mjølkedalspiggen (2040m) with Hastings, Garmo and Aukrust in 1889. Although this ascent is not mentioned in The
Northern Playground, he does describe his visit and exploration of Austerdalsbreen. I am in the process of verifying details of this ascent in Norway.
Mjølkedalspiggen (1st ascent)
Apparently Slingsby made the first ascent of Mjølkedalspiggen (2040m) with Hastings, Garmo and Aukrust in 1889. Although this ascent is not mentioned in The
Northern Playground, he does describe his visit and exploration of Austerdalsbreen. I am in the process of verifying details of this ascent in Norway.
1900
Dyrhaugstinder
Again in 1900, Slingsby was in the Hurrungane and he based himself at Turtegrø in the company of Therese Bertheau, Howard Priestman, G. P. Baker and Elias
Hogrenning. Via Dyrhaugsryggen, they ascended Store Dyrhaugstindane (2147m) and possibly Søre Dyrhaugstinden (2072m), although this is not clear.
Store, Vesle & Midtre Skagatølstindane
At 5 am the group set off joined by their host at Turtegrø, Ole Berge. After two hours they reached the Skarstølsbreen and efficiently they ascended the glacier to
reach Bandet, the broad col between Store Skagatølstind and Søre Dyrhaugstinden. After a short break at the hut on the col they headed up the south west face of
Store Skagatølstind and via 'Heftyes renne' they climbed to the summit in two roped teams. This route involves a few moves of Scandinavian grade 4 otherwise
scrambling in a quite exposed situation. By 11am they were all on the summit and following a longer pause, they descended via Slingsby's route of first ascent 24
years earlier to reach Mohns Skard. From here they made light work of the scramble to the summit of Vesle Skagatølstind (2340m) before following the ridge to
Halls Hammer, a 10m high wall that is abseiled. The ridge becomes very narrow before reaching the minor top of Midtre Skagatølstind (2284m) that has a
prominence of about 30m. Leaving the others to rest in sunshine on the summit, Slingsby and Berge descend the north ridge to have a look at 'V-skard' from above.
This prominent feature is an uncrossed and striking V in the ridge between Nørdre and Midtre Skagatølstindane. After deciding that the rock wall must be
approached from the north, they return to the others and descend the western flank of the mountain in order to return to Turtagrø at 9.30 in the evening.
Nørdre Skagatølstind
Following a late start, Slingsby, Berge, Priestman, Baker, Hogrenning and Eilert Sundt ascended Nørdre Skagatølstind (2167m) in 3 hours. They descended into
V-skard from the north and assessed the rock climb of approximately 75m on the other side before returning to the low point between næbbet (the beak, which is
the rocky high point before V-skard) and Nørdre Skagatølstind. From here they descended the western flank of the mountain via a hanging glacier, awkward rocks
and screes before reaching the valley and an easier path to Turtagrø. Two of the group though, chose to walk down the way they had ascended earlier!
Crossing V-skardet
This is the final day that Slingsby describes and another first as they cross the V shaped gap on the ridge between Nordre and Midtre Skarstølstindane. With Ole
Berge, Hogrenning and Sundt the four reach the bottom of the V gap just before mid day. With 25m of rope, Ole and Slingsby alternated leads and the four climbed
the 75m high rock wall in an hour. They continued to Midtre Skarstølstind before descending Hall's route bringing them back to Turtagrø by late afternoon.
Dyrhaugstinder
Again in 1900, Slingsby was in the Hurrungane and he based himself at Turtegrø in the company of Therese Bertheau, Howard Priestman, G. P. Baker and Elias
Hogrenning. Via Dyrhaugsryggen, they ascended Store Dyrhaugstindane (2147m) and possibly Søre Dyrhaugstinden (2072m), although this is not clear.
Store, Vesle & Midtre Skagatølstindane
At 5 am the group set off joined by their host at Turtegrø, Ole Berge. After two hours they reached the Skarstølsbreen and efficiently they ascended the glacier to
reach Bandet, the broad col between Store Skagatølstind and Søre Dyrhaugstinden. After a short break at the hut on the col they headed up the south west face of
Store Skagatølstind and via 'Heftyes renne' they climbed to the summit in two roped teams. This route involves a few moves of Scandinavian grade 4 otherwise
scrambling in a quite exposed situation. By 11am they were all on the summit and following a longer pause, they descended via Slingsby's route of first ascent 24
years earlier to reach Mohns Skard. From here they made light work of the scramble to the summit of Vesle Skagatølstind (2340m) before following the ridge to
Halls Hammer, a 10m high wall that is abseiled. The ridge becomes very narrow before reaching the minor top of Midtre Skagatølstind (2284m) that has a
prominence of about 30m. Leaving the others to rest in sunshine on the summit, Slingsby and Berge descend the north ridge to have a look at 'V-skard' from above.
This prominent feature is an uncrossed and striking V in the ridge between Nørdre and Midtre Skagatølstindane. After deciding that the rock wall must be
approached from the north, they return to the others and descend the western flank of the mountain in order to return to Turtagrø at 9.30 in the evening.
Nørdre Skagatølstind
Following a late start, Slingsby, Berge, Priestman, Baker, Hogrenning and Eilert Sundt ascended Nørdre Skagatølstind (2167m) in 3 hours. They descended into
V-skard from the north and assessed the rock climb of approximately 75m on the other side before returning to the low point between næbbet (the beak, which is
the rocky high point before V-skard) and Nørdre Skagatølstind. From here they descended the western flank of the mountain via a hanging glacier, awkward rocks
and screes before reaching the valley and an easier path to Turtagrø. Two of the group though, chose to walk down the way they had ascended earlier!
Crossing V-skardet
This is the final day that Slingsby describes and another first as they cross the V shaped gap on the ridge between Nordre and Midtre Skarstølstindane. With Ole
Berge, Hogrenning and Sundt the four reach the bottom of the V gap just before mid day. With 25m of rope, Ole and Slingsby alternated leads and the four climbed
the 75m high rock wall in an hour. They continued to Midtre Skarstølstind before descending Hall's route bringing them back to Turtagrø by late afternoon.
| For anyone who is thinking about visiting Norway's mountains and especially the magnificent Jotunheimen mountain region, then they should first have read Slingsby's book "Norway: The Northern Playground" to get an affectionate description of the places he visited. I have been lucky enough to get hold of a copy of the first edition of this book, with help of my friend Bob Hampson at Triple B Books. The copy is from 1941 and signed by Slingsby's sister Edith and dedicated to J.H.Preston of Gargrave in Yorkshire. Once you have walked or climbed the routes, you will certainly be astounded at the achievements of his day and be able to smile at the elegance in which he describes longs days over very hard and tiring terrain. He visited the country over twenty times in the period 1872 to 1921. His first visit at the age of 23. At a time when few mountains had been climbed, he proved to be a mountaineering pioneer and opened new passages through the mountains and made many first ascents on difficult and high summits. At times it was necessary for him for coax local Norwegians into assisting him as he became renouned as a rather wild Englishman. Once his reputation was better known however, the good Norwegian climbers joined forces with him in order not to miss out. Slingsby's first ascent of Store Skagatølstind or Storen in 1876 is probably his finest achievement. Today the route, which Slingsby, Mohn and Knut Lykken made from Vetti Gard, is very challenging because of its length and glacial approach to Mohns Skar as the glacier "Slingsbybreen" has receded from the upper reaches of the skar (col). The final section is an exposed final grade 2 scramble to the summit of Norway's third highest summit. |
| The information below is my interpretation of Slingsby's mountain days in the Jotunheim massif in cronological order. However, besides these routes, he also spent many days in the mountains stalking reindeer. I have used modern map names found on 1:50000 scale Norwegian maps in the descriptions. Should you wish to follow in some of Slingsby's footsteps in Jotunheimen, then I guide a holiday to do just this. |
Above, Snøuld or Cotton Sedge in the Visdalen valley in central Jotunheimen.