The Tour of Mont Blanc (TMB)

This page describes an experience of the Tour of Mont Blanc from when I led the route in June 2004. A friend and I completed the tour in 10 days, starting and finishing the trip in Chamonix. After completion of the tour, we rounded the holiday off with an ascent of Mont Blanc. The Tour of Mont Blanc is a fairly demanding circular trek around the Mont Blanc massif. The tour passes through very impressive mountain scenery in France, Switzerland and Italy. The length of the tour is approximately 160km and the route crosses several high mountain passes. The total ascent and descent of the tour was 16000m. The English Cicerone guidebook by Kev Reynolds describes the route in both anticlockwise (the normal) direction, starting in Les Houches, and clockwise, starting in Champex in Switzerland. I chose to start the tour in Chamonix due to transport and due to our plans after the tour was completed. We walked the route clockwise in order to reduce the chance of walking in the same direction as other people or groups. Indeed, the main reason for walking the tour at the very start of June was to avoid the crowds. The tour is very popular in July and August. This of-course meant that there would be more snow on the route than normal and we experienced that about 30-35% of the tour was on snow (a good cover lying at altitudes above 2000m). Equipment wise, we were self sufficient with camping gear, a stove, crampons and walking axes etc. and food for 2-3 days at a time.

We completed the tour as follows;

Date 30/5 31/5 1/6 2/6 3/6 4/6 5/6 6/6 7/6 8/6

Route Chamonix - Le Brevent - La Flegere - Lac Blanc Lac Blanc - Col Montets - Le Tour - Col de Balme - Les Grands Les Grands - La Forclaz - Bovine - Champex Champex - Issert - La Fouly La Fouly - Grand Col Ferret - Rifugio Bonatti Rifugio Bonatti - Tête de la Tronche - Courmayeur Courmayeur - Rifugio Elisabetta Rifugio Elisabetta - Col de la Seigne - Les Chapieux - Refuge du Bonhomme Refuge du Bonhomme - Col du Bonhomme - Les Contamines Les Contamines - Col de Vosa - Les Houches - Chamonix

Distance 9 km 15 km 18 km 14 km 18 km 16 km 14 km 18 km 13 km 14 (22) km

Ascent 480 m 840 m 660 m 450 m 1250 m 700 m 1010 m 1230 m 100 m 550 m

Descent 660 m 850 m 1280 m 430 m 810 m 1600 m 50 m 980 m 1400 m 680 m

High Point 2526 m 2352 m 2113 m 1595 m 2537 m 2584 m 2190 m 2516 m 2433 m 1653 m

Day 1  Chamonix - Le Brevent - La Flegere - Lac Blanc After a night at the Gîte Vagabond, run by a couple of British lads, and after we had shopped for 3 days worth of food we began the tour by taking the Le Brevent telepherique from near the centre of Chamonix to the summit of Le Brevent. Leaving at lunchtime in great weather, we had the opportunity for a fairly leisurely first day, just 9km to Lac Blanc. The initial few kilometers were on snow, along the ridge line to the NE of Le Brevent. We then descended to the halfway station of the telepherique at Plan Praz, with its ski tows littering the hillside, before continuing below the snowline, towards La Flegere. The footpath to La Flegere gently contours the hillside.

Above: The view to Mont Blanc from the centre of Chamonix, and below right, at Plan Praz. With 3 days worth of food shared between us and water for the day, my rucksack weighed roughly 18kgs. In the bright sunlight at altitude it is important to keep your head covered, a cap also keeps direct sunlight out of your face.

Below left: consulting the map on the descent to Plan Praz. The route over the next few days would take us into Switzerland and behind the mountains seen in the distance. The highest peak seen to the left is the Aiguille du Chardonnet. Below: approaching the snow covered Lac Blanc at around 7pm. The picture is looking southwards showing the snout of the Mer de Glace glacier and the Grand Jorrasses behind below ominous clouds. We were prepared to camp that night but found a half completed new hut open next to the Lac Blanc refuge, enabling us to get inside. Almost all the huts first open in mid June.

Day 2  Lac Blanc - Col Montets - Le Tour - Col de Balme - Les Grands After a restless night caused by a determined rodent and stormy weather outside, we set off at 8:30am towards the Col Montets. The first 2 hours descending towards the col was on snow and in quite poor visibility. We passed a tent pitched near the Lacs des Cheserys, no sign of life yet though. We arrived at the Col Montets at 11:30am after descending the final steep section. From there we chose to walk to Le Tour rather than climb up onto Aiguille des Possettes in the poor weather with no chance of a view.

Le Tour was, to say the least, closed. It was to become obvious that at this time of year most shop owners, hoteliers etc. are on holiday ... elsewhere! We had lunch from our supplies on the steps of the closed Col de Balme lift station before heading upwards towards the Col. During the afternoon the clouds opened and it rained lightly until we reached the Col at 3:30pm. The area was desserted and after a short break we continued on a compass bearing towards Les Grands. The last part of the day would again be on snow with only a few visible traces of the route.

Right: Two Alpine Ibex out of a herd of 8 seen through the mist, about 15 minutes walk above the Col Montets. Below: descending the good path to the Col.

Even though the final part of days route was only 3.5km and contours around the hillside at an altitude of 2050-2100m, it took us just over 3 hours from the Col to the hut at Les Grands due to the deep soft snow and the fact that the route had not been walked this season. Under normal snow free conditions, this part of the route takes around 1 hour and 15 minutes. After arriving at the hut we found shelter in the small barn that provided a winter room. After changing into dry clothes and eating, we soon fell asleep.

Day 3  Les Grands - La Forclaz - Bovine - Champex Next moring we awoke to the view below that looks down into the head of the Trient valley with the Glacier du Trient and the col Fenêtre D'Arpette on the right. However, we had decided to take the more leisurely route to Champex, via the valley floor to La Forclaz and then Bovine - a route that is 5km longer than the direct route over the col. We had judged that the time needed to walk the 5km on the flat would be less than the extra time taken over the col due to the snow cover, Jesper also had some problems with one of his knees.

Left: The route from Les Grands (bottom left) to Champex. We chose the longer route via Bovine.

Left: The TMB path just a short distance below Les Grands where it passes an almost sheer rock face. The path here is roughly 1m wide. Below: The view from the river Le Trient in the valley floor looking back to the head of the valley. From here the route is on the flat all the way to La Forclaz which offers time to take it easy and enjoy the forest and views up to the Col de Balme. We sheltered from the rain and ate some lunch in La Forclaz before continuing through the forest along the ascending footpath which climbs steadily all the way to Bovine. A few kilometers further the path descends steeply near Le Jure before dropping more steadily into the valley to the northwest of Champex. From Champex d'en Bas the route climbs 130m along roads to Champex. After a full day in the pooring rain we decided to get a room at the hotel on the high street in order to dry our stuff out and get a good meal and a couple of beers.

Day 4  Champex - Issert - La Fouly After two long days in poor weather, we had the opportunity to enjoy an easier day from Champex to La Fouly along the floor of the beautiful Swiss Val Ferret. The day started and ended with light rain, but it was fine during the middle part of the day. Before leaving Champex we called in at the tourist office and booked at night at the Gîte Girroles in La Fouly. The route begins by following the lake to its SE corner.

From Champex, the route descends steadily all the way to the old village of Issert where wooden houses date back to the 16th century. Indeed the whole valley displays an unchanged face, where modern technology hasn't really made an impact. After descending out of the forest, a kilometer or so before Issert, one can enjoy views up and down the valley. Following a late start, we lunched in Issert before continuing through meadows to Praz-de-Fort. From Issert, the route gradually ascends all the way to La Fouly. Above Chanton, a small hamlet just above Praz-de-Fort, we took an alternative route to the main TMB. Rather than walk eastwards along the road, we walked southwards to point 1207m (on the 1:25k map) then through the forest along the Crête de Saleina. Here one walks along the defined crest of ancient morrains deposited by the once much more impressive Glacier de Saleina.

Right, One of the many decorative water fountains seen on the route, this one in the forest below Champex. Below, descending out of the trees towards the hamlet of Issert in the Val Ferret. Todays stage took a little over 5 hours including stops.

Day 5  La Fouly - Grand Col Ferret - Rifugio Bonatti The Gîte Girolles has space for around 60 people and is open all year. On this occasion, however, we where the only guests. This did not detract from the service though and we enjoyed a good 3 course dinner with several Swiss beers. When in these more remote areas of the tour having the ability to speak some French is a great advantage. The couple who owned the gîte did not speak a word of English. After a good nights rest we awoke to another cloudy day. We departed after breakfast at 9:30 am.

As we where putting our gaitors on outside the front door of the gîte, the owner came out and we talked about our route for the day before he offered us a lift to the road head above Ferret. We could only accept and we where driven the 3km from La Fouly to Ferret. This just shows how friendly the local people are. From the road head at 1950m, we followed the good path zig zagging up the hillside to La Peula. From here the path trends south eastwards towards the Grand Col Ferret and after a kilometer we moved above the snow line. Conditions did not improve and by the time we had reached an altitude of 2400m the visibility was quite poor. Soon after, any traces of the route disappeared completely and we had only 10-20m of visibility. From here on we walked on bearings and counted steps in the Scottish winter conditions until we reach the col at 2537m. The approach to the col was not helped by some fresh snow cover on top of the fairly soft and wet layer underneath which didn't bear our weight. However, soon after we began descending from the col, we dropped beneath the clouds into the sun specked Italian Val Ferret. There were several tricky places on the descent due to a a few centimeters of wet snow on the steep grass but we soon reached the Rifugio Elena at the head of the valley. Here we enjoyed lunch in the Italian sun. Reaching high above the north side of the route along the valley floor is the mightily steep and impressive south side of the Grandes Jorrasses. Behind is the Glacier de Pré de Bar that reaches down from Mont Dolent to the Rifugio Elena. Below: Looking back into the Swiss Val Ferret on the approach to the Granc Col Ferret, before the clouds closed in.

Right: Walking westwards below the Rifugio Elena in the Italian Val Ferret. From here we where blessed with blue skies and sunshine for the rest of the tour - in complete contrast to the days spent in Switzerland. After a gently stroll along the valley floor to a layby by the road at 1720m, we then took the path up into the trees towards the Rifugio Bonatti seated at 2150m on the south side of the valley with tremendous views over to the Grandes Jorrasses, the Dôme de Rochefort and in the distance Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and the snowy crown of Mont Blanc. I had booked the night at the rifugio before the trip began and apart from us there was only a group of Italian school children staying. The Rifugio Bonatti is only a few years old and is one of the best kept huts in the Alps. The rifugio is open most of the year and inside, the walls are decorated with pictures describing Walter Bonatti's impressive life story.

Day 6  Rifugio Bonatti - Tête de la Tronche - Courmayeur After another good evening meal and a leisurely evening watching the sunset and the clouds around the high peaks we woke to clear skies and glorious sunshine.  After breakfast we packed and left the hut at 9am. Our route for the day was over the Col Sapin and Mont de la Sax to Courmayeur. The route climbs up above the hut to the Pas Entre-Deux-Sauts at 2524m.

After only a short distance we climbed above the snowline into the bowl below the pass. The sun was intense and the snow soft. We arrived at the pass after 3 hours - much slower than we expected. However, we were rewarded with impressive views back towards the Grand Col Ferret and towards Mont Blanc. From here one descends again to cross the Vallon d'Armina, before ascending towards the Col Sapin at 2436m. Once on the col, it is possible to descend directly to Courmayeur via the Val Sapin. We chose to remain high and cross the Tête de la Tranche at 2584m before descending along the crest of the Mont de la Saxe. This is the place where Edward Whymper studied the Grandes Jorrasses in 1865 prior to his ascent.

Above: Morning sun over the Rifugio Bonatti, and below, approaching the Pas Entre-deux-Sauts.

Above: The impressive view to Courmayeur from the slopes of the Tête Bernarda with the Mont de la Saxe on the right. The Col de la Seigne, which will be crossed in 2 days time, can be seen on the top right. Below: A salamander sunning itself by the steep, almost never ending, path that descends towards Courmayeur. Enjoying a large pizza (and a well earned beer) that evening, and the 1 star Hotel Firenze in the centre of Courmayeur. This hotel offers adequate accommodation at very very resonable rates.

Day 7  Courmayeur - Rifugio Elisabetta Courmayeur offers a very well kept and friendly face. Those of you who are familiar with Chamonix should not expect the same bustling mountaineering town here though. By comparision, Courmayeur is almost unaffected by the attractions the famous nearby mountains offer. There are only a couple of shops selling outdoor kit, but don't expect to find resealable gas cartriges for your stove. We enjoyed a relaxing morning wandering around the town before setting of at lunchtime towards the Rifugio Elisabetta via the Val Veni. The usual TMB climbs up over the Col Chécroui before descending into the upper Val Veni, however, we walked along the foot of the Val Veni. Once away from the nearby road construction at the entrance to the Mont Blanc tunnel, the route is very pleasant.

Once past Plan Ponquier at 1500m, the walking is almost on the flat for several kilometers where one passes several quaint campsites and a perfect lunchspot in the trees with tables and benches and even barbeques. Above left: Looking up the Val Veni from Purtud. After a break we continued along the road, which soon becomes closed to vehicles. The road then steepens as it climbs upwards alongside the vast lateral moraines of the Glacier du Miage that flows down from the southern slopes of the Aiguille de Bionnassay and Mont Blanc. The moraines once completely blocked the upper Val Veni, which created Lac de Combal. Lac de Combal remains today as a small lake and flat marshland. Below left: Aproaching Lac de Combal with the morrains on the right. The Elisabetta hut is in the distance on the snowy slopes in the centre of the photograph. Above and to the left of the hut is the impressive Pyramides Calcaires, a large tilted limestone slab on the edge of the main granite massif. From Lac de Combal it takes roughly 1 hour to walk the final section to the Rifugio Elisabetta. Just before reaching the rifugio, one passes the ruins of an old military barracks. Below: The impressive view down into the upper reaches of the Val Veni from the porch of the Rifugio Elisabetta. The lateral moraines cleary seen almost blocking the valley. We enjoyed the night in the company of two small groups of Italian and French. The group of climbers had their sights on the Aiguille des Glaciers while the other group were filming nearby wildlife including a pair of eagles.

Day 8  Rifugio Elisabetta - Col de la Seigne - Les Chapieux - Refuge du Bonhomme It dawned fine and bright once again which gave us tremendous views even before leaving the hut. We departed at 8:30am and descended slightly from the hut before beginning the undemanding ascent towards the Col de la Seigne. The TMB passes below the limestone slab of the Pyramides Calcaires on the northern side of the Vallon de la Lée Blanche, the valley at the head of the Val Veni,  before reaching the ruins of the old shepherds quarters of the Alpe supérieur de la Lée Blanche.

Right: The route from the Rifugio Elisabetta to Les Chapieux, at the southern most point of the TMB, and then on to the Refuge Bonhomme.

Left: Descending from the Rifugio Elisabetta, with the Aiguille de Tré la Tête (3846m) behind. The refuge is a perfect base for alpine climbing on this side of Mont Blanc with quite a few easier peaks nearby. Below: On the approach to the Col de la Seigne, one passes the derelict customs building that was once used by Italian customs officials to patrol the Italian-French border

Above: Looking eastwards from the level pastures of the Vallon de la Lée Blanche, with the rock spire of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey visible on the left. Below: The full view eastwards from the Col de la Seigne (2516m).

The view from the col into France is more limited, but after only a short while, one can see into the full length of the Vallée de Glaciers with the hamlet of Les Chapieux nestling in the distance. The alternative TMB over the Col des Fours can also be viewed from here, but until la Ville des Glaciers, the TMB has a common path. We had chosen the route via Les Chapieux and after descending the valley, we enjoyed a cold Coca Cola and ice cream before ascending steeply from Les Chapieux at 1550m to the Refuge Bonhomme at 2443m. On the approach to the refuge we met the gaurdian who had partialy opened the hut, which would open fully for the season on the next day. He informed us that there was water and gas for cooking. We shared the evening and night with a group of 10 French walkers who had just begun the tour from Les Contamines. They where very curious about snow conditions on the rest of the tour because they had struggled up through the snow to the refuge and they were carrying rather large sacks. The refuge is situated in a splendid location with particularly excellent views towards Mount Pourri.

Day 9  Refuge du Bonhomme - Col du Bonhomme - Les Contamines After seeing the French group off, we too separted. As we left a helicopter began ferrying supplies to the refuge. After a cold night the snow was frozen and I made good use of the nevé by teaching Jesper a few basic crampon skills. From the refuge the route traverses the hillside north eastwards to the Col du Bonhomme at 2329m. Below: The panorama is impressive.

On the col there is a small wooden shelter. once on the col, you are rewarded with views of the Dômes de Miage and Mont Blanc behind. Todays stage of the TMB takes you northwards along the western side of the Mont Blanc massif into Val Montjoie and to Les Contamines. After the initial traverse, the routes descends to Chalet la Balme at 1706m before descending more gently past Nant Borrant and then on to the valley floor. This is an easier stage of the tour and allows for some relaxation in Les Contamines.

Above: On the Col du Bonhomme with the Dômes de Miage behind and below: The view northwards into the Val Montjoie from near Mion at 1900m. We arrived in Les Contamines at 1pm and we checked into the hotel Les Grizzles in the centre of town on the main high street by the church. Les Contamines is quiet at this time of year and from the town centre, one has undisrupted views of the Dômes.

Day 10  Les Contamines - Col de Vosa - Les Houches - Chamonix After a bath and an afternoon of relaxation we ate out before having a good night sleep. Next day it was even warmer than the previous 4 days, primarilly because we where starting in the valley rather than from a high refuge. From Les Contamines we followed the road to Tresse before taking minor roads up through pastures and woods to the hamlet of le Champel. From there the path turns eastwards and contours the hanging valley below the Glacier de Bionnassay. We crossed the torrent of the Torr de Bionnassay at Pont des Places before following the path to Bionnassay. From here the path ascends steeply again towards the Col de Vosa at 1653m. The view opens suddenly at the col when you emerge from the trees and you have extensive views of the Chamonix valley.

We arrived at the col after just over 3 hours. Near the station of the Mont Blanc tramway, we enjoyed a lunch stop in the shade of one of the buildings. Right: The view of Val Montoije from below le Champel. The Col du Bonhomme can be seen in the distance. From the Col de Vosa, with its large hotel and ski runs, the path continues northwards along open slopes before beginning the long descent to Les Houches. Below: 5 minutes from the col a tremendous view opens up to the east. From left to right: Le Brevent and the Aiguilles Rouge (out of picture), the Vallée de l'Arve, Aiguille Verte, Aiguille du Midi, Mont Blanc du Tacul, Aiguille du Goûter, Mont Blanc (behind), Aiguille du Bionnassay and the Dômes de Miage.

The path soon descends into the trees and one is limited thereefter with occasional views of the mountains. The descent, although mostly on roads is hard on the knees and one looses over 650m of altitude descending to Les Houches. However, you arrive quite quickly in the centre of the town, and a small bar/café is on hand with cold drinks to soothe your thirst. Just across the street is the Téléférique de Bellevue and the bus stop. After 10 fantastic days in all types of weather, carrying all our own equipment, we had earned the right to a short bus ride to Chamonix. We where soon back where we had started and we could once again enjoy wandering around without our packs. After a shower and change of clothes, we discussed our plan of attack for Mont Blanc over a beer. Read more about the Mont Blanc ascent here.

All pictures copyright Peter Chapman and Jesper Bevensee, map excerpts from 1:60k, 02 Mont Blanc, courtesy l'Association Grande Traversée des Alpes, Institut Geographique National IGN.

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