The Tour of Mont Blanc (TMB)

The Tour of Mont Blanc (TMB)

Mountain Walking in the Alps Main Page Hovedsiden

This page describes an experience of the Tour of Mont Blanc from when I led the route in June 2004. A friend and I completed the tour in 10 days, starting and
finishing the trip in Chamonix. After completion of the tour, we rounded the holiday off with an ascent of Mont Blanc. The Tour of Mont Blanc is a fairly demanding
circular trek around the Mont Blanc massif. The tour passes through very impressive mountain scenery in France, Switzerland and Italy. The length of the tour is
approximately 160km and the route crosses several high mountain passes. The total ascent and descent of the tour was 16000m.

The English Cicerone guidebook by Kev Reynolds describes the route in both anticlockwise (the normal) direction, starting in Les Houches, and clockwise,
starting in Champex in Switzerland. I chose to start the tour in Chamonix due to transport and due to our plans after the tour was completed. We walked the route
clockwise in order to reduce the chance of walking in the same direction as other people or groups. Indeed, the main reason for walking the tour at the very start of
June was to avoid the crowds. The tour is very popular in July and August. This of-course meant that there would be more snow on the route than normal and we
experienced that about 30-35% of the tour was on snow (a good cover lying at altitudes above 2000m). Equipment wise, we were self sufficient with camping
gear, a stove, crampons and walking axes etc. and food for 2-3 days at a time.

We completed the tour as follows;

Distance

9 km
15 km
18 km
14 km
18 km
16 km
14 km
18 km
13 km
14 (22) km

Ascent

480 m
840 m
660 m
450 m
1250 m
700 m
1010 m
1230 m
100 m
550 m

Descent

660 m
850 m
1280 m
430 m
810 m
1600 m
50 m
980 m
1400 m
680 m

High Point

2526 m
2352 m
2113 m
1595 m
2537 m
2584 m
2190 m
2516 m
2433 m
1653 m

Route

Chamonix - Le Brevent - La Flegere - Lac Blanc
Lac Blanc - Col Montets - Le Tour - Col de Balme - Les Grands
Les Grands - La Forclaz - Bovine - Champex
Champex - Issert - La Fouly
La Fouly - Grand Col Ferret - Rifugio Bonatti
Rifugio Bonatti - TÃªte de la Tronche - Courmayeur
Courmayeur - Rifugio Elisabetta
Rifugio Elisabetta - Col de la Seigne - Les Chapieux - Refuge du Bonhomme
Refuge du Bonhomme - Col du Bonhomme - Les Contamines
Les Contamines - Col de Vosa - Les Houches - Chamonix

Date

30/5
31/5
1/6
2/6
3/6
4/6
5/6
6/6
7/6
8/6

Day 1 Chamonix - Le Brevent - La Flegere - Lac Blanc

After a night at the GÃ®te Vagabond, run by a couple of British lads, and after we had shopped for 3 days worth of food we began the tour by taking the Le Brevent
telepherique from near the centre of Chamonix to the summit of Le Brevent. Leaving at lunchtime in great weather, we had the opportunity for a fairly leisurely first
day, just 9km to Lac Blanc. The initial few kilometers were on snow, along the ridge line to the NE of Le Brevent. We then descended to the halfway station of the
telepherique at Plan Praz, with its ski tows littering the hillside, before continuing below the snowline, towards La Flegere. The footpath to La Flegere gently
contours the hillside.

Day 2 Lac Blanc - Col Montets - Le Tour - Col de Balme - Les Grands

After a restless night caused by a determined rodent and stormy weather outside, we set off at 8:30am towards the Col Montets. The first 2 hours descending
towards the col was on snow and in quite poor visibility. We passed a tent pitched near the Lacs des Cheserys, no sign of life yet though. We arrived at the Col
Montets at 11:30am after descending the final steep section. From there we chose to walk to Le Tour rather than climb up onto Aiguille des Possettes in the poor
weather with no chance of a view.

Day 3 Les Grands - La Forclaz - Bovine - Champex

Next moring we awoke to the view below that looks down into the head of the Trient valley with the Glacier du Trient and the col FenÃªtre D'Arpette on the right.
However, we had decided to take the more leisurely route to Champex, via the valley floor to La Forclaz and then Bovine - a route that is 5km longer than the direct
route over the col. We had judged that the time needed to walk the 5km on the flat would be less than the extra time taken over the col due to the snow cover,
Jesper also had some problems with one of his knees.

Above: The view to Mont Blanc from the centre of Chamonix, and below right, at Plan Praz.
With 3 days worth of food shared between us and water for the day, my rucksack weighed
roughly 18kgs. In the bright sunlight at altitude it is important to keep your head covered, a
cap also keeps direct sunlight out of your face.

Below left: consulting the map on the descent to Plan Praz. The
route over the next few days would take us into Switzerland and
behind the mountains seen in the distance. The highest peak
seen to the left is the Aiguille du Chardonnet. Below:
approaching the snow covered Lac Blanc at around 7pm. The
picture is looking southwards showing the snout of the Mer de
Glace glacier and the Grand Jorrasses behind below ominous
clouds. We were prepared to camp that night but found a half
completed new hut open next to the Lac Blanc refuge, enabling
us to get inside. Almost all the huts first open in mid June.

Day 4 Champex - Issert - La Fouly

After two long days in poor weather, we had the opportunity to enjoy an easier day from Champex to La Fouly
along the floor of the beautiful Swiss Val Ferret. The day started and ended with light rain, but it was fine during
the middle part of the day. Before leaving Champex we called in at the tourist office and booked at night at the
GÃ®te Girroles in La Fouly. The route begins by following the lake to its SE corner.

Day 5 La Fouly - Grand Col Ferret - Rifugio Bonatti

The GÃ®te Girolles has space for around 60 people and is open all year. On this occasion, however, we where the only guests. This did not detract from the
service though and we enjoyed a good 3 course dinner with several Swiss beers. When in these more remote areas of the tour having the ability to speak some
French is a great advantage. The couple who owned the gÃ®te did not speak a word of English. After a good nights rest we awoke to another cloudy day. We
departed after breakfast at 9:30 am.

Day 6 Rifugio Bonatti - TÃªte de la Tronche - Courmayeur

After another good evening meal and a leisurely evening watching the sunset and the clouds around the high peaks we woke to clear skies and glorious
sunshine. After breakfast we packed and left the hut at 9am. Our route for the day was over the Col Sapin and Mont de la Sax to Courmayeur. The route climbs up
above the hut to the Pas Entre-Deux-Sauts at 2524m.

Day 7 Courmayeur - Rifugio Elisabetta

Courmayeur offers a very well kept and friendly face. Those of you who are familiar with Chamonix should not expect the same bustling mountaineering town
here though. By comparision, Courmayeur is almost unaffected by the attractions the famous nearby mountains offer. There are only a couple of shops selling
outdoor kit, but don't expect to find resealable gas cartriges for your stove. We enjoyed a relaxing morning wandering around the town before setting of at
lunchtime towards the Rifugio Elisabetta via the Val Veni. The usual TMB climbs up over the Col ChÃ©croui before descending into the upper Val Veni, however,
we walked along the foot of the Val Veni. Once away from the nearby road construction at the entrance to the Mont Blanc tunnel, the route is very pleasant.

Le Tour was, to say the least, closed. It was
to become obvious that at this time of year
most shop owners, hoteliers etc. are on
holiday ... elsewhere! We had lunch from
our supplies on the steps of the closed Col
de Balme lift station before heading
upwards towards the Col. During the
afternoon the clouds opened and it rained
lightly until we reached the Col at 3:30pm.
The area was desserted and after a short
break we continued on a compass bearing
towards Les Grands. The last part of the
day would again be on snow with only a few
visible traces of the route.

Right: Two Alpine Ibex out of a
herd of 8 seen through the mist,
about 15 minutes walk above
the Col Montets. Below:
descending the good path to the
Col.

Even though the final part of days route was only 3.5km and contours around the hillside at
an altitude of 2050-2100m, it took us just over 3 hours from the Col to the hut at Les
Grands due to the deep soft snow and the fact that the route had not been walked this
season. Under normal snow free conditions, this part of the route takes around 1 hour and
15 minutes. After arriving at the hut we found shelter in the small barn that provided a
winter room. After changing into dry clothes and eating, we soon fell asleep.

Left: The route from Les Grands
(bottom left) to Champex. We
chose the longer route via Bovine.

Left: The TMB path just a short distance below Les Grands where it passes an almost sheer rock face. The path
here is roughly 1m wide. Below: The view from the river Le Trient in the valley floor looking back to the head of the
valley. From here the route is on the flat all the way to La Forclaz which offers time to take it easy and enjoy the forest
and views up to the Col de Balme. We sheltered from the rain and ate some lunch in La Forclaz before continuing
through the forest along the ascending footpath which climbs steadily all the way to Bovine. A few kilometers further
the path descends steeply near Le Jure before dropping more steadily into the valley to the northwest of Champex.
From Champex d'en Bas the route climbs 130m along roads to Champex. After a full day in the pooring rain we
decided to get a room at the hotel on the high street in order to dry our stuff out and get a good meal and a couple of
beers.

From Champex, the route descends steadily all the
way to the old village of Issert where wooden houses
date back to the 16th century. Indeed the whole valley
displays an unchanged face, where modern
technology hasn't really made an impact. After
descending out of the forest, a kilometer or so before
Issert, one can enjoy views up and down the valley.
Following a late start, we lunched in Issert before
continuing through meadows to Praz-de-Fort. From
Issert, the route gradually ascends all the way to La
Fouly. Above Chanton, a small hamlet just above
Praz-de-Fort, we took an alternative route to the main
TMB. Rather than walk eastwards along the road, we
walked southwards to point 1207m (on the 1:25k
map) then through the forest along the CrÃªte de
Saleina. Here one walks along the defined crest of
ancient morrains deposited by the once much more
impressive Glacier de Saleina.

Right, One of the many decorative water
fountains seen on the route, this one in the
forest below Champex. Below, descending
out of the trees towards the hamlet of Issert
in the Val Ferret. Todays stage took a little
over 5 hours including stops.

As we where putting our gaitors on outside the
front door of the gÃ®te, the owner came out and
we talked about our route for the day before he
offered us a lift to the road head above Ferret.
We could only accept and we where driven the
3km from La Fouly to Ferret. This just shows
how friendly the local people are. From the road
head at 1950m, we followed the good path zig
zagging up the hillside to La Peula. From here
the path trends south eastwards towards the
Grand Col Ferret and after a kilometer we moved
above the snow line. Conditions did not improve
and by the time we had reached an altitude of
2400m the visibility was quite poor. Soon after,
any traces of the route disappeared completely
and we had only 10-20m of visibility. From here
on we walked on bearings and counted steps in
the Scottish winter conditions until we reach the
col at 2537m. The approach to the col was not
helped by some fresh snow cover on top of the
fairly soft and wet layer underneath which didn't
bear our weight. However, soon after we began
descending from the col, we dropped beneath
the clouds into the sun specked Italian Val
Ferret. There were several tricky places on the
descent due to a a few centimeters of wet snow
on the steep grass but we soon reached the
Rifugio Elena at the head of the valley. Here we
enjoyed lunch in the Italian sun. Reaching high
above the north side of the route along the valley
floor is the mightily steep and impressive south
side of the Grandes Jorrasses. Behind is the
Glacier de PrÃ© de Bar that reaches down from
Mont Dolent to the Rifugio Elena. Below: Looking
back into the Swiss Val Ferret on the approach
to the Granc Col Ferret, before the clouds closed
in.

Right: Walking westwards below the Rifugio Elena in the Italian Val
Ferret. From here we where blessed with blue skies and sunshine
for the rest of the tour - in complete contrast to the days spent in
Switzerland. After a gently stroll along the valley floor to a layby by the
road at 1720m, we then took the path up into the trees towards the
Rifugio Bonatti seated at 2150m on the south side of the valley with
tremendous views over to the Grandes Jorrasses, the DÃ´me de
Rochefort and in the distance Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and the
snowy crown of Mont Blanc. I had booked the night at the rifugio
before the trip began and apart from us there was only a group of
Italian school children staying. The Rifugio Bonatti is only a few years
old and is one of the best kept huts in the Alps. The rifugio is open
most of the year and inside, the walls are decorated with pictures
describing Walter Bonatti's impressive life story.

After only a short distance we climbed above the snowline into the bowl below the pass. The
sun was intense and the snow soft. We arrived at the pass after 3 hours - much slower than
we expected. However, we were rewarded with impressive views back towards the Grand Col
Ferret and towards Mont Blanc. From here one descends again to cross the Vallon d'Armina,
before ascending towards the Col Sapin at 2436m. Once on the col, it is possible to descend
directly to Courmayeur via the Val Sapin. We chose to remain high and cross the TÃªte de la
Tranche at 2584m before descending along the crest of the Mont de la Saxe. This is the place
where Edward Whymper studied the Grandes Jorrasses in 1865 prior to his ascent.

Above: Morning sun over the Rifugio Bonatti, and
below, approaching the Pas Entre-deux-Sauts.

Above: The impressive view to Courmayeur from the slopes of the TÃªte Bernarda with the Mont de la Saxe on the right. The Col de la Seigne, which will be
crossed in 2 days time, can be seen on the top right. Below: A salamander sunning itself by the steep, almost never ending, path that descends towards
Courmayeur. Enjoying a large pizza (and a well earned beer) that evening, and the 1 star Hotel Firenze in the centre of Courmayeur. This hotel offers adequate
accommodation at very very resonable rates.

Day 9 Refuge du Bonhomme - Col du Bonhomme - Les Contamines

After seeing the French group off, we too separted. As we left a helicopter began ferrying supplies to the refuge. After a cold night the snow was frozen and I made
good use of the nevÃ© by teaching Jesper a few basic crampon skills. From the refuge the route traverses the hillside north eastwards to the Col du Bonhomme
at 2329m. Below: The panorama is impressive.

Day 10 Les Contamines - Col de Vosa - Les Houches - Chamonix

After a bath and an afternoon of relaxation we ate out before having a good night sleep. Next day it was even warmer than the previous 4 days, primarilly because
we where starting in the valley rather than from a high refuge. From Les Contamines we followed the road to Tresse before taking minor roads up through
pastures and woods to the hamlet of le Champel. From there the path turns eastwards and contours the hanging valley below the Glacier de Bionnassay. We
crossed the torrent of the Torr de Bionnassay at Pont des Places before following the path to Bionnassay. From here the path ascends steeply again towards the
Col de Vosa at 1653m. The view opens suddenly at the col when you emerge from the trees and you have extensive views of the Chamonix valley.

Day 8 Rifugio Elisabetta - Col de la Seigne - Les Chapieux - Refuge du Bonhomme

It dawned fine and bright once again which gave us tremendous views even before leaving the hut. We departed at 8:30am and descended slightly from the hut
before beginning the undemanding ascent towards the Col de la Seigne. The TMB passes below the limestone slab of the Pyramides Calcaires on the northern
side of the Vallon de la LÃ©e Blanche, the valley at the head of the Val Veni, before reaching the ruins of the old shepherds quarters of the Alpe supÃ©rieur de la
LÃ©e Blanche.

All pictures copyright Peter Chapman and Jesper Bevensee, map excerpts from 1:60k, 02 Mont Blanc, courtesy l'Association Grande TraversÃ©e des Alpes, Institut Geographique National
IGN.

Once past Plan Ponquier at 1500m, the walking is almost on
the flat for several kilometers where one passes several quaint
campsites and a perfect lunchspot in the trees with tables and
benches and even barbeques. Above left: Looking up the Val
Veni from Purtud. After a break we continued along the road,
which soon becomes closed to vehicles. The road then
steepens as it climbs upwards alongside the vast lateral
moraines of the Glacier du Miage that flows down from the
southern slopes of the Aiguille de Bionnassay and Mont Blanc.
The moraines once completely blocked the upper Val Veni,
which created Lac de Combal. Lac de Combal remains today
as a small lake and flat marshland. Below left: Aproaching Lac
de Combal with the morrains on the right. The Elisabetta hut is
in the distance on the snowy slopes in the centre of the
photograph. Above and to the left of the hut is the impressive
Pyramides Calcaires, a large tilted limestone slab on the edge
of the main granite massif. From Lac de Combal it takes
roughly 1 hour to walk the final section to the Rifugio Elisabetta.
Just before reaching the rifugio, one passes the ruins of an old
military barracks. Below: The impressive view down into the
upper reaches of the Val Veni from the porch of the Rifugio
Elisabetta. The lateral moraines cleary seen almost blocking
the valley. We enjoyed the night in the company of two small
groups of Italian and French. The group of climbers had their
sights on the Aiguille des Glaciers while the other group were
filming nearby wildlife including a pair of eagles.

Right: The route from the Rifugio
Elisabetta to Les Chapieux, at the
southern most point of the TMB, and
then on to the Refuge Bonhomme.

Left: Descending from the Rifugio Elisabetta, with the Aiguille de
TrÃ© la TÃªte (3846m) behind. The refuge is a perfect base for
alpine climbing on this side of Mont Blanc with quite a few easier
peaks nearby. Below: On the approach to the Col de la Seigne, one
passes the derelict customs building that was once used by Italian
customs officials to patrol the Italian-French border

Above: Looking eastwards from the level pastures of the Vallon de la LÃ©e Blanche, with the rock spire of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey visible on the left.
Below: The full view eastwards from the Col de la Seigne (2516m).

The view from the col into France is more limited, but after only a short while, one can
see into the full length of the VallÃ©e de Glaciers with the hamlet of Les Chapieux
nestling in the distance. The alternative TMB over the Col des Fours can also be
viewed from here, but until la Ville des Glaciers, the TMB has a common path. We had
chosen the route via Les Chapieux and after descending the valley, we enjoyed a cold
Coca Cola and ice cream before ascending steeply from Les Chapieux at 1550m to
the Refuge Bonhomme at 2443m. On the approach to the refuge we met the gaurdian
who had partialy opened the hut, which would open fully for the season on the next
day. He informed us that there was water and gas for cooking. We shared the evening
and night with a group of 10 French walkers who had just begun the tour from Les
Contamines. They where very curious about snow conditions on the rest of the tour
because they had struggled up through the snow to the refuge and they were carrying
rather large sacks. The refuge is situated in a splendid location with particularly
excellent views towards Mount Pourri.

On the col there is a small wooden shelter. once on the col, you are rewarded with views of the DÃ´mes de Miage and Mont Blanc behind. Todays stage of the
TMB takes you northwards along the western side of the Mont Blanc massif into Val Montjoie and to Les Contamines. After the initial traverse, the routes
descends to Chalet la Balme at 1706m before descending more gently past Nant Borrant and then on to the valley floor. This is an easier stage of the tour and
allows for some relaxation in Les Contamines.

Above: On the Col du Bonhomme with the DÃ´mes de Miage behind and below: The view northwards into
the Val Montjoie from near Mion at 1900m. We arrived in Les Contamines at 1pm and we checked into the
hotel Les Grizzles in the centre of town on the main high street by the church. Les Contamines is quiet at
this time of year and from the town centre, one has undisrupted views of the DÃ´mes.

We arrived at the col after just over 3 hours. Near the station of
the Mont Blanc tramway, we enjoyed a lunch stop in the shade
of one of the buildings. Right: The view of Val Montoije from
below le Champel. The Col du Bonhomme can be seen in the
distance. From the Col de Vosa, with its large hotel and ski
runs, the path continues northwards along open slopes before
beginning the long descent to Les Houches. Below: 5 minutes
from the col a tremendous view opens up to the east. From left
to right: Le Brevent and the Aiguilles Rouge (out of picture), the
VallÃ©e de l'Arve, Aiguille Verte, Aiguille du Midi, Mont Blanc du
Tacul, Aiguille du GoÃ»ter, Mont Blanc (behind), Aiguille du
Bionnassay and the DÃ´mes de Miage.

The path soon descends into the trees and one is limited thereefter with occasional
views of the mountains. The descent, although mostly on roads is hard on the
knees and one looses over 650m of altitude descending to Les Houches. However,
you arrive quite quickly in the centre of the town, and a small bar/cafÃ© is on hand
with cold drinks to soothe your thirst. Just across the street is the TÃ©lÃ©fÃ©rique
de Bellevue and the bus stop. After 10 fantastic days in all types of weather, carrying
all our own equipment, we had earned the right to a short bus ride to Chamonix. We
where soon back where we had started and we could once again enjoy wandering
around without our packs. After a shower and change of clothes, we discussed our
plan of attack for Mont Blanc over a beer. Read more about the Mont Blanc ascent
here.