| CircumTrek & Worldwide Trekking |
| Above, the mighty Mount Everest proudly displaying her summit behind the Lhotse/Nuptse wall. |
| I have chosen to present information and some pictures from my travels outside of Scandinavia and central Europe on this page, together with details about CircumTrek™. At the moment, I have selected a few pictures from the Solu Khumbu region in Nepal and from Iceland. The thought of circumnavigating the world has been of interest for explorers for hundreds of years and a maritime circumnavigation was completed in 1522 by Elcano. Circumnavigating islands by various means including kayak is nowadays popular. But what is CircumTrek™? By introducing the term CircumTrek™ I intend to market treks were the goal is to circumnavigate mountains or mountain regions and thus travelling with clients though some of the most magnificent mountain scenery the world has to offer - while never retracing one's steps. Very popular circular routes do already exist such as The Tour of Mont Blanc (see my TMB page here). However, I plan to introduce new and interesting circular treks away from the crowds and hopefully routes that have never been completed before. I currently have a route around the three 2400m summits of Norway in Jotunheimen - CircumTrek™ 2400, and I am planning a route around Everest. An ambition of mine is also to trek around the worlds’ fourteen 8000m mountains. I intend to complete this major expedition of more than 4000 km in a way such that clients will be able to join for stages of this immense undertaking. Please read more in my brochure and enjoy this page - you will find pictures from Iceland lower down. |
| TM |
| Left, almost all travellers to the south eastern corner of the great Himalayan chain arrive in Kathmandu, a sprawling town lying at an altitude of 1300m. From here trekkers and climbers then move off to mountain ranges such as Annapurna, Manaslu and the Everest region. Any visit should allow for a couple of days to take in the atmosphere in Kathmandu and not just treat it as a transit town. However, you should be prepared to witness extreme squalor alongside the wealthier aspects of life that tourism brings. The rules of the road are also quite different from the western world, although things function quite well considering the amazing number of rickshaws, mopeds, cars and trucks that fill the roads. |
| Above left, poverty in the suburbs of Kathmandu and right, the street by the Bodhnath Stupa (pictured below). The Bodhnath is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Kathmandu and it is one of the largest spherical Stupas in the world at 40m high. Its construction dates to around the year 500. In the square there are many other buildings of interest including a Tibetan monastery and a workshop or centre of teaching of the art of hand painting a Thangka which often takes the form or depicts a Mandala - and in mind blowing detail. Other sites or areas of interest in Kathmandu are the Swayambhunath (or monkey) Temple sited on a hill top overlooking the town, Durbar Square and of course Thamel for its vast variety of shops and restaurants including the Rum Doodle with its 40000 1/2 feet bar. |
| Right, a popular hotel for trekking companies and westerners generally is the Shankar Hotel. The hotel is of a good standard with pleasant gardens and an outdoor swimming pool. The district of Thamel is also only 15 minutes walk away. The hotel has quite a history with climbers such as Bonnington, Whillans and Dougal Haston who stayed here in the 70's prior to some of their big Himalayan expeditions. |
| When it is time to move on from the bustle of Kathmandu, the journey often heads for the domestic terminal of the international airport and a short flight to Lukla at 2800m above sea level. This small village is located on a hillside with a compact airfield beyond belief. The picture below shows the standing area and 475m long tilted runway. Flights in or out only operate in good visibility, typically early morning, when 19-seater twin-otter planes often fly one after another in groups of four. Obviously, delays do occur so any trip should have the flexibility to allow for an overnight delay particularly on the way out. The effects of altitude can become apparent at Lukla. |
| As an alternative to the breathtaking flight to Lukla, it is also possible to walk here from the road at Jiri (1905m) a town some 190km from Kathmandu. The trail (usually to Choplung, passing below Lukla) takes 6 to 7 days but allows good acclimatisation and gets the legs into gear before the main Khumbu trail is reached. Left, into the middle of October, the main trail gets very busy with a stream of trekkers on the trail. |
| Below, the cook team head off quickly after breakfast in order to have lunch prepared for us when we catch up with them later in the day. Here leaving after a nights camp at Toktok |
| Above, crossing one of several wire suspension bridges over the Dudh Kosi, here at Larja Dobhan. Below, prayer flags flutter in the breeze. |
| Right, yaks are used as work horses, both for trekker's gear but also for daily chores where the carrying of heavy loads are required. Below, a busy street in the main porter town of Namche Bazaar. The town, perched on a hillside at 3400m, is the centre of all activity in the Solu Khumbu district. Here you can get hold of just about any piece of mountaineering kit including museum worthy items. At Namche, most people certainly feel the altitude after ascending from the valley floor to the town, and for this reason it is weel advised to make a stop here of several days before going on. Before reaching Namche, one passes into the Sagarmartha National Park near Jorsale. Here permits are checked or issued at the checkpoint. The establishment of the park has meant the protection of wildlife, stopped deforestation and littering - as trek groups are required to collect together their litter and take it out of the park. Below right, I am quite sure this is Gentiana Pyrenaica, this specimen photographed at 4600m above Pheriche. |
| Below, the magnificent amphitheatre location of Namche Bazaar. A run up the steps through the village will quickly have newcomers on their knees. |
| Above, our lead Sherpas and right, myself - all of us enjoying the sunshine on the north east facing balcony of the 12-room Everest View Hotel - the highest hotel in the world. The hotel was opened in 1973 and is located a short distance above Namche Bazaar at 3850m. The building is well camouflaged in the pine trees. Here one can take in the views while sipping a cup of lemon tea on the large balcony. The summit of Mount Everest is 27km away as the crow flies. |
| Below, a wonderful view of Nuptse, Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam from the trail beyond Namche Bazaar. |
| Above, our experienced cook team washing up after lunch in Selawa and below, refueling the kerosene stoves. |
| Above, the Chorten just beyond Namche on the main Khumbu trail with the mighty southern flank of Lhotse dominating behind - despite its remoteness. Left, a view from the trail of the wooded Imja Drengka gorge and the great peaks on the horizon. The settlement of Phortse can be seen on the hillside left of centre. Below, the fluted summit of Ama Dablam, know by many as the most beautiful mountain in the world. The usual route to the 6814m summit follows the ridge in view. |
| Right, the village of Dingboche lying at 4350m, with the peaks of Thamserku down-valley behind. In my opinion, Dingboche has a wonderful open location with views in many directions and of-course of an unfamiliar angle on Ama Dablam, who's summit towers above. Dingboche can be reached in 5 or 6 days from Luckla including time for acclimatisation. Below, a local carpenter uses traditional hand tools to prepare timber for a new door frame and below right, a friend training fixed rope techniques in big gloves during a rest day close to Dingboche. |
| Below, the village of Pheriche seen from Dusa. Pheriche lies just over 4200m and is regarded as quite a cold and windy place, getting less sun than Dingboche. However, there is an aid post here which is manned by western doctors in the main season. |
| Below, our porter ladened up ready for a trek across the Khumbu glacier near Lobuche and a crossing of the Kongma La (5535m). Below right, Himalayan Edelweiss photographed with early morning dew at over 5000m, high in the Khumbu. |
| Above an Alpine Chough perched on the crest of the Kongma La pass and right the memorial to Scott Fischer who passed away on Everest in 1996 - one of many memorials situated above Duglha. Below, a view of the popular Everest viewpoint of Kalapatthar (5545m) and the settlement of Gorak Shep. Although this is one of the remotest parts of the Khumbu, there is an internet café and phones to the outside world. Everest base camp on the south side is only 4km further. Pumori (7165m) is hidden in cloud behind. |
| Above, whenever in the mountains there is always a risk of changeable weather and in the Himalayas, the risk is greater the closer you are to the end or start of the monsoon season. Here in late September we woke after snowfall at 5500m. Below left, in Chukhung (4700m) the same morning under a cloud base you could almost touch. Below right, looking out over Imja Tso, the glacial lake dammed by moraines a few kilometers beyond Chukhung. This is a site monitored by remote equipment as a breach of the dam would have devastating consequences for the communities down valley. |
| Above, a night time shot of our camp with head torch trails and Cassiopeia in the night sky above Lhotse's great south face which is hiding in the darkness only 6km distant. Below, the breathtaking view from our camp of Lhotse shortly after dawn. |
| Above, having fun with the Sirdar and one of our climbing porters after having put rocks in the Sirdars' rucksack earlier in the day. On treks the group can build up a good relationship with the local team, despite language barriers. Above right, Ama Dablam from Chukhung with the north ridge in profile and the sharp peak of Amphu Gyabjen. Below, the fantastic trail above Chukhung, here with the Lhotse-Nuptse ridge and Imjatse or Island Peak. |
| Above, enjoying perfect conditions at over 6000m and left, well kitted out and smiling under a magnificent blue sky in absolutely marvelous Himalayan surroundings. Below, relaxing in a warm tent. |
| Now, from the high Himalaya to the remote north. Here on Iceland during October. The island is like no other place on earth and is a true volcanic landscape, being formed to this day by constant activity from below. The three pictures here are from close to Landmannalaugar, a mountain refuge in the south central interior of the island. The surrounding mountains are mainly rhyolite and with all different colours from yellows to greens to blues. The refuge is built on a flat river plain and at the edge of the impressive lava flow of Laugahraun which erupted in 1477m. Below, at the edge of the lava flow close to Landmannalaugar. |
| Above, in the hot pool by Landmannalaugar. Out of season you can be lucky and have the area to yourselves. The shallow pool is fed by a hot spring and hot water pours in so you can find a comfortably hot position to your liking. The experience is made all the better by snow lying on the ground and steam rising all around. Below, the small settlement of Litla-Hof on the south coast. The village has a wonderful location close to Skaftafell National Park and lies below Iceland's highest mountain - Hvannadalshnukur (2110m). The houses look out over the immense 600 square kilometer glacial sand bank of Skeidararsandur. |
| Above and below, the Svartifoss waterfall at Skaftafell cascades over hanging basalt columns, and is a wonderful photographic motive. |
| Below, the mountain of Kristinartindar (1126m) which lies behind the Svartifoss waterfall offers a rewarding ascent and expansive views over the surrounding mountains and glaciers. Here seen in perfect autumn weather. |
| Above, the Icelandic Rjúpa or Ptarmigan in its changing coat. Below, sunset by the glacier front of Skeidarárjökull which is over 20km wide. |
| Left, photographing the Öræfajökull massif and Hvannadalshnukur at sunrise. Below, walking on the moraines of Kambsmýrarkambur south east of Hvannadalshnukur. |
| Below, looking west over the glacier lake of Jökulsárlón with Hvannadalshnukur behind. See more pictures from Iceland on the Photograghy page. |